The Air conditioning (AC) system in your Subaru is made up of the following.

A compressor, Condenser, Evaporative (Evap) core, Expansion valve, receiver dryer, hoses and lines, thermo sensor and the controls.  Inside the car there are a series of ducting or blend doors and their respective controls.  I am not really going to give a class on how the ac system works I will save that for another article.

Anytime you notice a situation where the Ac system isn’t blowing cold air, there is some sort of a problem with the ac system.  Driving down the road at 60 mph brings in a rush of air that may feel cool to you, just like standing in front of a box fan in your house provides some temperature decrease.  But if the ac doesn’t actually feel cold there is a problem.

When the ac system is in fact not performing as it should a diagnoses must be performed.  When an ac system has a low charge the performance will most definitely suffer.   But its also possible to have a ac system that has a full charge and not blow cold as well.  The possibilities are many and in some circumstances the problem may be hard to diagnose or have more than one issue.

Adding to this is that it is normal to lose about 2 ounces of R134a out of an automotive system every year with no real leaks.  So on the one hand the system could just be low enough to not function correctly after 4 years with no real problems or it can be low as a result of a leak.

I wanted to point out some of the current issues we see.

The 2000 to 2004 Legacy and Outback suffer from leaks at the 2 Ac hoses one from the compressor to the condenser and one form the compressor to the Evap core.  This causes the system to run low or empty.  It’s a very correctable situation and if not fixed properly will just cause the R134a gas to leak back out causing the problem you were trying to fix to reoccur.  To find the leak test equipment is needed.

2002 to 2003 Subaru Impreza, ( all models and trim levels) has an issue where the Evap core can ice over as a result of a design issue to the system, Subaru has issued a service bulletin about it.  The fix is a new thermosensor (which is located in the Evap core).  This requires taking the Evap core out of the vehicle which is partially removing the dash components on the passenger side.  I usually suggest replacing the expansion valve at the same time.

The 2001 to 2004 Outback with the H6 has some of the same leaky hose issues that plague the 4cylinder models.

The newer Ac systems (2005 and up) are smaller than they have been previously and even just a slightly low charge can affect the performance.

Typically speaking we only think about the Ac system when it isn’t working correctly, but the reality is, it really should be serviced at least every 4 years.   As the system loses some of the refrigerant as part of what is considered normal, it is replaced with air, which creates moisture in the system, which periodically needs to be removed through a process called evacuation, which involves hooking up a vacuum pump and putting the system into vacuum, the system should than be re-oiled and recharged with refrigerant and this good maintenance can help ensure your ac system will work when you want it to.

Thanks for reading

Justin

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Subaru came out with a great replacemant gasket for the first Generation 2.5l that is a real fix for the problem.

This gasket pictured below lasted a few months, yes months!!  The gasket is similar in design to the original gasket that was used in production and then was tweaked making it even weaker.

The reason I point these gaskets out is I would hate for any of my readers to buy them, and get no real life out of the repair.  I imagine since the repairs were made at a local “general repair shop” that the method of repair played into this as well, which is reason number one on a list of a hundred to make sure the shop you are taking your Subaru to is a Subaru Expert.

Paying to have the repairs made properly a second or third time will create financial and emotional frustration.

Thanks for reading , and know what you are paying for!!

Justin

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If you buy less than 6 oil filters, we will issue a Pay Pal credit for the difference in shipping costs, the price INCLUDES a new drain plug gasket.

Quantity

Quantity 1 $7.29 Quantity 3 $20.87 Quantity 6 $41.94 Quantity 9 $62.91

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Here is June’s Subaru Service Special

This Coupon must be mentioned by the time you come in for your appointment to be valid, cannot be combined with or used for any other service.  It expires June 30th, and all discounts require AWDAuto License plate frames, which are free.

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You can see the filter on the right has had a major malfunction stemming from a poor design and second from lazy, or non professional installation.  Notice the filter on the left has a cage all around it preventing the filter from becoming collapsed where the one on the right only ha reinforcement on two edges.   Now had the filter been installed properly it would have taken until the filter was restricted for this to happen, but it is something we see all too often.

Its important to understand that with something as simple as an air filter there are very significant differences in the quality of the parts.  The worst thing here was the customer actually paid $7.34 above the MSRP for the Factory Subaru Filter at the lube center, which is exactly how that lube center makes their profit margins, they offer a inexpensive oil change and give you a presentation of all these things your Subaru needs if they can add a few filters and services here and there they are having a good day, as the parts and labor they use are at the very low end of the spectrum in terms of quality of components used and the skill of the individual putting it in.  I know an air filter should be pretty easy, but ask yourself how many high school students can do it the first try without issue. Chances are at a lube center your car may be the first one that individual has ever seen let alone service, as they work on Audi, Volkswagen and all the cars in between. Is that who you deserve to have service your vehicle for approximately the same overall cost as a good repair shop.

One of my favorite scenarios to point out is there are a lot of shops out there charging the same as we do, with no where even close to the level of experience we have with your Subaru in many cases much much more.  If a Good reputable independent shop in your part of town is 5 or 6 dollars higher for an oil change than the “high school lube shop” do not be fooled into thinking the service will be the same.   Most good independents have the same Technician capable of replacing your Head gaskets, or diagnosing a difficult drivability problem also change your oil.

There are plenty of places to clip coupons, and I think saving money is great myself, but deciding where to buy your next pair of shoes based on the price for the exact same pair of Nike’s from store A or B is nothing like saving a little on an oil change as the real cost can be to great and you may end up driving your new Nike’s instead.

What prompted me to post this today is in terms of what happened to this Subaru, the end result was pretty significant and completely avoidable.

Thanks for Reading

Justin

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Pictured below is what is called a captured wheel bearing.

And here is a wheel bearing and hub assembly.

Rather than the bearing being pressed into the knuckle assembly it now bolts in with the choice of replacing the entire unit hub and all(the part the wheel bolts up to) or just the bearing and transfer over the hub.

This particular bearing fits the rear of a 2000 to 2004 Subaru Outback & Legacy.   The Subaru Legacy and Outback starting in 2005 use this design front and rear.  The Impreza in 2008, and finally the Forester with its redesign in 2009, the Tribeca has always been a captured type bearing.

The 2005 and up Legacy & Outback have had some significant problems with the rear wheel bearings and Subaru has extended the warranty on the rear wheel bearings to 100k on the affected vehicles.

The bearing area is also no much larger than it has been in the past on the Subaru and is much larger than the rear wheel bearing on a Forester/ Impreza of the same era that has had so many problems.  This doesn’t mean that there won’t be instances of replacement, but we see these fail much less often.

There is no special Subaru special tool needed to replace the bearing, like on the rear of the Forester, no “hub tamer” short cut tool needed to speed up the process.   While there is still a certain skill level needed to complete the job, it isn’t as daunting a task as it was before, one that if wasn’t done correctly would yield a very short bearing life.   The only real drawback is that there is no way to increase lubrication.  But the part is now much easier to replace, and as the part starts to come down in price the overall cost passed on the customer should come down as well.

Thanks For Reading

Justin

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We have most sets for your Subaru in stock.

You can email ryan@allwheeldriveauto.com for a price installed on your Subaru or a set shipped to your
door. Or Buy now here

Rally Armor UR Mud Flaps

RALLY ARMOR UR MUD FLAP BLACK W/BLUE LOGO (2002-07 IMPREZA / WRX $126.99 RALLY ARMOR UR MUD FLAP BLACK W/GREY LOGO (2002-07 IMPREZA / WRX $126.99 RALLY ARMOR UR MUD FLAP / BLACK W/ BLUE LOGO (2008+ STI) $159.99 RALLY ARMOR UR MUD FLAP / BLACK W/GREY LOGO (2008+ STI) $159.99 RALLY ARMOR UR MUD FLAP BLACK W/ SILVER LOGO (2005-2009 LEGACY & $129.99 RALLY ARMOR UR MUD FLAP / BLACK W/ RED LOGO (2008+ IMPREZA 2.5i $129.99

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Subaru model list and engine configuration, U.S. specifications (As best as I can remember)

LEGACY & OUTBACK

• From 1990 to 1994 Subaru Legacy 2.2L engine, available in L, LS, LSI trim, hydraulic lifters, non interference, the LS and LSI were available with pneumatic suspension to address early ground clearance issues in the Legacy
• Turbo model or “Sport” 2.2l turbo from 1991 to 1994 (non intercooled turbo)
• Turbo discontinued in 1994 in the U.S.
• 1995 brought a redesigned body with a lower stance and the added trim level of “Outback” but the same stance as the Legacy.The 2.2l stayed mostly the same but some configurations were produced with single exhaust port cylinder heads that can be problematic, And we of course started OBD II
• Trim levels were Brighton, L, LS, LSI, Outback
• The 2.5L (DOHC) was introduced in the LS and LSI models in 1995 as an option
• 1996 brought the Legacy GT with a 2.5l engine, Legacy Outback with a 2.2l manual and a 2.5L auto transmission. The Outback has a higher stance but is still just a “trim” level of the Legacy
• The 1996 2.5l has hydraulic valve train and composite head gaskets that are like in design as the 2.2l from 1990 to 1998
• 1997 brings about mechanical valve train in the 2.2 and 2.5l and MLS (Multi Layer Shim) head gaskets in the 2.5l, these gasket tend to have some internal failures resulting in overheating, this can happen as early as 60k but on average most reach over 100k before there are any problems
• Mid year 1998 brings about a redesigned 2.2l in the Legacy which is the design the 2.5l will follow
• 2000 brings about the 2.5L (SOHC) and major overhaul of the models. While the Legacy and Outback are still the same platform they are now separate Models. This is the engine that has the famed external head gasket leak that lead to the WWP-99 campaign. While the coolant leaks were greatly slowed the gaskets can still be problematic for oil leaks and some external coolant and internal leaks as well
• Legacy 2.2l, Legacy GT 2.5l, Outback 2.5L
• 2001 adds the 3.0l H6 in the Outback models only and the VDC(vehicle dynamics control) is standard with the H6, this is a chain driven motor that if well maintained is one of Subau’s best, but if neglected will cost a lot to repair
• The 2.2l is dropped out of production in 2002, and the LL Bean comes out and is only available with the H6
• 2005 is a redesign, and the Legacy GT, and Outback XT is equipped with a intercooled 2.5l Turbo(DOHC) and available 5spd sport shift transmission.  In 2006 we get a Legacy GT Spec B with a 6 speed transmission but is very limited in production

• From 2005 to 2009 there are many refinements and new emissions control devices including the PZEV (Partial Zero Emissions Vehicle) but no major changes
• 2010 is a complete redesign of the Legacy and Outback both becoming larger in size and adding the CVT (Constantly Variable Transmission)

BAHA

Limited production vehicle based on the Outback, was equipped with either a 2.5l or 2.5l Turbo

Forester

• Limited production in 1997 2.5l DOHC
• 1998 Available only with a 2.5l DOHC
• Trim levels 1997 to 2002 L, S
• 1999 2.5l SOHC
• 2003 was a partial redesign and added the X, XS Trim levels
• 2004 on Available with a 2.5L DOHC Turbo in the XT
• Forester LL Bean has an H4
• Some partial changes from 2004 to 2008 but major re-vamp in 2009 making the vehicle larger in size and a much broader appeal
• The 1999 to present all use the same type of head gaskets that the Legacy and Outback

IMPREZA

• Introduced in 1993

Available with a 1.8l and 2.2l until the 1.8l was dropped

• The Impreza RS in 1998 had the 2.5L DOHC in 1998 and the 2.5L SOHC from 1999 to present
• Available starting in 1996 in Outback and Outback sport trim levels
• Trim levels Brighton, L, RS, Outback and Outback Sport, engine configurations varied by trim level
• In 2002 the Impreza WRX made its north American Debut with a 2.0l DOHC Turbo, Followed by the WRX STI in 2004 with a DOHC 2.5l but different from the 2.5 L in the Forester XT, In 2006 the 2.0L was dropped from production in favor of the 2.5L found in the Legacy GT, Outback XT and Forester XT
• The 2007 STI is one of the more popular models as it has a better gear set for around town driving.
• Subaru drops the sedan from the line up favoring a 5-door, only to bring it back as the WRX GT
• The 2011 STI will be available as a sedan

TRIBECA

Came out in 2006 and was redesigned in 2008 only available with the H6, The H6 has changed in size and power but is still the same platform.  This vehicle is packed with features, and has the capability of 7 passenger seating.

The Rest

• Loyale produced from 1985 to 1994 1.8l and 1.8l Turbo, variations of the platform are RX, RS, DL, GL, GL10. The Loyale was virtually unchanged from 1990 to 1994 and was really only kept around as long as it was in the early 90’s because of concerns with the low ground clearance on the Legacy models. There are many configurations of these cars, some with dual range 4wd, turbo and a differential lock
• Justy, we don’t see many of these and no one will pay us to work on them
• SVX, Dropped out of Production 1996 and some 1996 sold as 1997, only available with the 3.3l H6, this was a car well ahead of its time with a lot of unique features. Was available in either 2 or AWD with an automatic Transmission only
• Subaru XT, XT Turbo, XT6 very rare anymore. The XT6 model could be found with electronic power steering, pneumatic suspension and really was a car ahead of its time

Important Notes and tips, (with a bit of sarcasm)

• Clutches are hydraulic starting in 1997 in all 2.5l versions, cable operated in the 1.8l and 2.2l up until 2000 or so. All cable operated clutches require an adjustment from time to time. Most cable operated clutches had a hill holder, a device that makes having a manual transmission on a hill a breeze.
• The 2003 Forester brought back the hill holder but it is a hydraulic and cable operated device.
• Starting in 1999 with the SOHC 2.5l Subaru went to a dual mass type flywheel. Some of these can cause a chattering issue with the clutch.
• For any 1999 and Later SOHC models it is suggested by Subaru to add their coolant conditioner at every instance the coolant is changed.
• There is a parking light rocker switch on the steering column of every Subaru, if bumped will cause the lights to stay on.
• If your battery goes dead, or is replaced and now your lights are flashing, you have tripped your keyless entry/security system even if you didn’t know you had one. If you have a remote press the button, if not or the battery is dead try the following. There is a toggle switch taped to the keyless entry module wiring harness under the dash to the left of the steering column or if you are lucky the installing technician may have done it right and actually installed the toggle switch in the lower dash panel as is should be. Press the switch with the key on and all will be well. The good news is now that you know you have keyless entry you can purchase a remote, program it in and wahoo a new feature.
• 2000 and newer models when the security system is tripped you must turn the the key in the ignition 3 times and the annoying horn noise will stop.
• If you have a seat belt chime driving you crazy try inserting the seat belt into the buckle for, are you ready, 20 TIMES and the noise shall stop, it may take you several tries at this.
• You need to service the battery on your Subaru every year or sooner, with no exceptions.
• It really is a good idea to turn off the head lights and wipers before shutting the car off, that way they wont turn on while trying to start the Subaru in the dead of winter while the wipers are frozen to the windshield, and the battery must deal with the cold, the head lights, the wipers and the starter. Not to mention the radio, heater, seats, you get the picture. The reason your wipers are now running past the windshield is the linkage was damaged when the wiper blades were frozen against the windshield and the wiper motor tried moving them, kind of like a tongue on a frozen flag pole.
• If you want the AWD system to last you want all 4 tires to be of like tread design and depth, so yes if you have a blow out requiring a tire needs to be replaced then yes you should make sure the replacement tire matches what is already on the car. This can be done 2 ways either buy 4 tires or one tire that matches the rest and have it shaved to match. Yes this can be done, but not in a hurry typically and you should never use your space saver tire for much longer than a few miles at low speeds or you will damage the differential. This is why I never suggest you pay a premium for 100,000 mile tires on your Subaru.

• You probably dont need a flush, in fact most likely you dont, if you simply follow the maintenance guide in the owners manual you shouldn’t really need to ever flush your cooling system, or transmission fluid, how ever if you neglect your brake fluid, that may require a flush to remove moisture. You certainly dont need one at every oil change interval, regard less of what the teenager at the lube center tries to tell you.
• The “I” in the maintenance booklet does not mean “Inspect” Look closer at the bottom, in fine print it states “I” = Inspect, Replace or Correct As needed. Do not be fooled into thinking the differential and transmission fluid is good for life. The GL5 gear lube is pretty much the same stuff that has been around, well since before I can remember.
• Your Subaru Doesn’t need brake calipers replaced under normal situations, but it would prefer someone older than 18 replaced the brakes in a car you tote you family around in.
• If you dont tighten the “gas cap” it will cause the check engine light to come on. If you forget to change and check the engine oil and it runs out, the engine may start making some very loud noises before ceasing to function and the “check engine light” will never come on. If your Check engine light flashes you need to stop driving the car. There is one check engine light and many different causes of the light to come on mostly dealing with emissions control devices, but sometimes more severe.
• The ATF Temp light is kind of like the check engine light, and serious if it starts flashing and should be looked at fairly quickly.
• Many newer vehicle will have a flashing cruise control light and no cruise control function if you are ignoring a check engine light(someone is trying to get your attention).
• There truly are no instances when a check engine light will come on for maintenance. The guy that set his crack pipe down long enough to tell you this should be tarred, feathered and then forced to read the entire owners manual plus the service manual just for fun.
• Because the check engine light came on last year for a loose gas cap doesn’t mean its on for a loose gas cap this time, if it is gas cap related, after tightening the gas cap the light should turn off after a few trips in the car, if it doesn’t its not the gas cap this time, its something new that really should at a minimum be looked at and from there decide if its something “worth” repairing.
• Your Subaru, as will every other car cost you a lot more to own than any ownership study will represent.
• If you decide that changing your oil less often than 3 times a year is a good idea, because Subaru and every other Vehicle manufacture makes it confusing, or Synthetics last longer, I assure you if the engine has a major mechanical issue out of warranty Subaru probably wont participate. The Subaru branded filter for all 4 cylinder model Subaru’s are tiny little.
• If every car lasted 300,000 miles with no real repairs needed how would any car company make a profit?
• A Subaru is a great AWD vehicle with a low center of gravity that will get you to where you are going and take care of you if you are ever in an accident. Through the years Subaru has appealed to many more owners than just the Skier and Hiker with the many different models and trim levels.

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I have never found anything in a bottle that will resolve what happens to a Subaru Head gasket.  I took some pictures from a Subaru Outback in the shop today that had some stop leak put in, only to over heat the next day.   The cooling system is just full of this stuff and it really did no good as seen in the pictures below.

I really have never found anything that will permanently resolve a head gasket leak on a Subaru.   While I truly understand the displeasure there can be at the though t of a repair like head gaskets, I do also want to  warn that adding stop leak can add to the cost of the repair.

Justin

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