If you own one of the affected models you should set up an appointment with your local Subaru dealer service department to make sure everything is ok.

At All-Wheel Drive Auto we believe that customer service is much more than just servicing your Subaru it’s also keeping you informed.

NHTSA RECALL BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 08V135000
Related Ref Number(s): 08V 135000
ARTICLE BEGINNING

VEHICLE DESCRIPTION
Model(s): 2002 SUBARU IMPREZA
2003 SUBARU IMPREZA
Campaign No: 08V135000
Number of Affected Vehicles: 36791
Beginning Date of Manufacture: 2000 SEP
Ending Date of Manufacture: 2002 SEP

SYSTEM
LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES: TAILGATE: LATCH

DESCRIPTION OF DEFECT
SUBARU IS RECALLING 36,791 MY 2002-2003 IMPREZA WAGONS. THE STUD BOLT(S)
OF REAR GATE STAY MAY HAVE BEEN TIGHTENED WITH INSUFFICIENT TIGHTENING
TORQUE AND A GAP MAY HAVE RESULTED BETWEEN THE REAR GATE PANEL AND
STUD BOLT BASE. AFTER REPEATED REAR GATE OPERATIONS (OPENING AND
CLOSING), THE REAR GATE INNER PANEL AT THE WELDING NUT MAY BREAK,
WHICH WILL LEAD TO DETACHMENT OF THE REAR GATE STAY, AND THE REAR
GATE DROPPING DOWN.
CONSEQUENCE OF DEFECT
IN CASE SOMEONE IS UNDERNEATH OR NEAR THE REAR GATE, THERE IS A
POSSIBILITY THAT A DROPPING REAR GATE PANEL MAY HIT THEM INCREASING THE
RISK OF INJURIES.

CORRECTIVE ACTION
DEALERS WILL INSPECT TO SEE IF THERE IS ANY GAP AT THE STUD BOLT OF THE
REAR GATE STAY INSTALLATION. IF A GAP IS FOUND, THE STUD BOLT WILL BE
REMOVED TO CHECK FOR DAMAGE TO THE WELDING NUT. IF THE WELD NUT IS

LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES: TAILGATE: LATCH -2002 Subaru Impreza Outback Page 2 of 2
CRACKED, THE REAR GATE STAY WILL BE REPLACED FREE OF CHARGE. THE
RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN ON OR BEFORE .TUNE 2, 2008. OWNERS MAY
CONTACT SUBARU AT 1-800-782-2783.

When it comes to your and your passenger’s safety as well as drivers of other vehicles on the road, why would you evertrust your brakes to the lowest price and does a lower price really save you any money?

This is not to say that you should pay the highest price quoted but you should know what you are paying for. As I have mentioned in other articles not all repairs are created equal as there can be a significant difference in parts quality and the experience of the technician working on your car. When it comes to your brakes and your safety don’t you want the best and safest repair possible?

I am often amazed at how many times I have had to take off one year old brakes done at a tire store or franchised automotive repair chain, for various different reasons such as pulsation, vibration, noise or just a poor stopping experience.

Having started my career at a tire store that offered total car care as well I have seen first hand the problems that come up from cheap parts and cheap labor.

Your Subaru or just about any other Japanese import uses stainless steel brake caliper pistons helping prevent rust that will build up, as there can be a lot of moisture in your brakes hydraulic system. A lot of the calipers that are put on your car by the tire stores and large chains have sandblasted cores and use cast steel pistons which rust very quickly. It is as simple as leaving a cast iron pan and a stainless steel pan out in the rain and seeing which one rusts first.

The original calipers in your Subaru, Toyota, Honda, Nissan, etc. Should rarely ever need to be replaced, they just do not fail that often but yet we constantly see advertised brakes stating “we do brakes right” that includes replacing your calipers regardless if they are ever really faulty. This repair will be ok for a while but will never last as long as the original calipers would be capable of lasting. Worst yet is when not if the aftermarket calipers fail it will be very expensive to put true O.E. quality calipers back on the car.

On a Subaru the right way to replace the brakes in most cases is to replace the pads and hardware as supplied in the box of pads when you buy the parts from Subaru. Add to this the rotors should either be machined until true or replaced if questionable as a result of being close to the minimum thickness allowed, severely warped, delaminated or pitted and rusty.

The way to save money replacing brakes is to use O.E. quality parts and find an Expert like All-Wheel Drive Auto who will charge you less labor than the dealer but always insist on doing your brakes like his or her own family is in the car with.

Have a Summer trip planned with Your Subaru or Japanese import?

Mention you read our blog when scheduling in a brake inspection and save 10% off of your brakes on our already lower than the dealer prices.

 This is what comes in the box when you buy the Subaru pads. 

 These are typical  high end aftermarket pads that do not come with any hard ware and only one set of shims that are already attatched to the pads.

While we don’t yet know the true answer to this question, we will in the not to distant future.

After a friend asked me what I thought of the internet hype and you tube videos showing a “in the vehicle hydrogen generator” that creates browns gas or hho, I decided to look into it further.

One of the common arguments I have observed is that it will take more energy to create the hho than reaped in producing it in the first place. But how can anyone really know this for sure in a car with an alternator.

I want to be sure to point out that I am not a scientist or an engineer; I am merely just a Technician, business owner and concerned father of two boys who I want to have a bright future and I often worry that there are just not enough people truly trying to come up with ways to decrease the amount of fuel used in cars and thus decrease the emissions they produce.

Whether you believe in global warming or not you must realize by now that as the rest of the world becomes more like the U.S. and consumes more commodities such as oil the price of gas may fluctuate a little, but is on a steady rise to much higher prices in the future.

So I look to what I know to be true, If HHO can truly be produced in a hydrogen generator mounted in a car, I can figure a way to decrease the total amperage draw of the car to compensate for the increase in amperage draw from the generator.

So here is what we are going to attempt. We are going to build and install the system as outlined in a book bought online. As the project goes along I will provide updates to our progress as I can. What is learned and achieved as well as any failures. Since this is somewhat of a departure from what we normally do, I am not sure how long this will take. I am optimistic that from research into materials, supply to design, build, installation and finally testing that we can have this done in a few months time.

It is not our intent to try and “cash in” on any hype and the reason for posting an article on our blog is to try and bring about awareness. We might want input from someone in the scientific community if we were to get stuck on one or more particular aspects of the hydrogen generator build.

Here is the vehicle we are going to use as the test car. A 1993 Subaru Legacy, with almost 300,000 miles. Two reasons for choosing this car. One, we know Subaru’s very well and once the Generator is installed it should be immediately apparent to me if it is helping or hurting the car. Two, if it damages the car, it has had a good life and I wouldn’t be out to much.

If we are successful, it does indeed work and offer real fuel savings, than we may offer to try and replicate it and offer the systems to be installed.

Again we didn’t event the technology being installed here we are only out to see if it really works. If it does is it practical, reliable and stable.

If we ultimately don’t end up with a success, there is that old saying. Out of failure breeds success and maybe we can have a part in it.

Wish us luck, please send us your feedback and we will keep you posted as we can.

Justin

As a specialist we know your car better, especially when it comes to the right way to make economical repairs that a general repair shop wouldn’t know about or a Subaru dealer would never consider. Sometimes a vehicle will develop a pattern failure and a real solution needs to be found or a more economical repair procedure can be had.

Through the years we have found solutions to replacing expensive parts by making repairs to existing components rather than just blindly install new ones. We have been able to become very good at repairs and service work by specializing in Subaru and we try to share this experience with our customer with lower labor prices.

We know what parts we can use on your Subaru without sacrificing longevity. Most automakers have become pure design and assemble companies leaving the parts manufacture to other companies. These auto parts companies are free to sell the same parts in aftermarket channels with out the Subaru logo. While in some cases in only makes sense to stick with Subaru parts especially when it comes to slower moving items that may have not been introduced in the aftermarket by the companies that originally made the parts for Subaru. There is also a good chance that the exact replacement part can be found at a 20% savings if you know how to look (we do).

From top to bottom we really know your Subaru well and want to help you get as many trouble free miles out of it as possible. We have seen these cars go well over 300k and I am the owner of a 1992 Legacy with 292k and counting. We take pride in servicing cars with higher miles and often have suggestions to help keep them going. Even though your Subaru may be getting up there in miles don’t discount just how long they will run.

Your brakes are important, and as we head into spring and eventually into the summer driving season. Living in and around the great city of Seattle and its many hills its easy to recognize just how much we use and rely on our brakes. But we often see customers live to long with brake symptoms that may be decreasing the overall efficiency of the braking system in your Subaru. Stopping two or three inches sooner is sometimes the difference between having an accident and not having one. 

At All-Wheel Drive Auto we believe in performing brake service the right way, which starts with a complete brake system inspection, including a discussion about how your Subaru is used and what type of terrain it is driven in. Most of the time we will use O.E. Subaru parts when servicing your brake system, but there are some circumstances when using a good quality aftermarket set of brake pads may be a better alternative, such as a set of pads with a higher ceramic content than the original pads.

From now until the end of April we will offer a free brake inspection with any other service we provide. As well as offer 10% off of brake service from now until the end of April as well. Start spring out right, start spring out safe.

With gas prices already as high $3.45 in some places and it isn’t even spring yet the quicker your Subaru is in tip top shape the more you will squeeze out of every drop of fuel you put in it.

From now to the end of March you can save 10% off our already lower than the dealer prices on a 30/60/90k service up to $50.00

Or 10% off of labor on any other service, such as brakes or Head gaskets up to $75.00.

The fine print

This offer cannot be combined with any other offer and must be presented or mentioned at time of vehicle check in to be valid.

Undergoing MyBlogLog Verification

According to Subaru the new Coolant must NOT be mixed with any other type of coolant. This means that when the cooling system is serviced for any reason or the overflow bottle is topped off during a routine oil change the new coolant must be used.

Subaru is stating that the mixing of the new coolant with any other type of coolant will alter the protection capabilities of the new coolant, which Subaru claims will last 10 years before service is needed.

The good and bad explained.

By increasing the service life of engine coolant we should be able to cut down on some of the hazardous waste generated when performing routine maintenance. This should also save some money with regards to the cost of service, and has the added benefit of being better for the environment.

The new Super coolant is much more expensive than just regular coolant or even the Factory Subaru coolant used to date. Also is the real possibility that not every shop, (especially quick lube centers) will follow the recommendation of the manufacturer.  

This can and will create a situation where the owner of a newer Subaru will wait the 10 years for service, but because the coolant is mixed may be faced with expensive repairs prior to that service being done.  This is where a good Independent Subaru Repair shop like All-Wheel Drive Auto can serve you better.

Staying informed is the only real way to get the most out of your vehicle.

All Wheel Drive Auto is committed to keeping our customers informed about the cars they drive. And providing tips for Subaru owners who find our website regardless of where they live.
Undergoing MyBlogLog Verification

Here is the usual situation someone replaces the belts, or the timing belt or the alternator and almost instantly the power steering pump starts to make noise and the car can be hard to steer. Well here is what happens. The top bolt for the alternator and power steering fan belt shroud is secured to the power steering return line tube/bracket through a rubber grommet in the top of the shroud. If there isn’t enough slack in the shroud when the top bolt is tightened the shroud will pull onto the tube (towards the drivers side) allowing air into the power steering system thus causing the fluid to become aerated. The other end of this shroud is slotted at the alternator pivot bolt. The rubber grommet is there, to give a little instead of pulling the tube under load. Once the tube is pulled it is necessary to reset it in the power steering pump to make sure it isn’t still being pulled in one direction after this the shroud will need to be installed properly ( with slack). From there the aerated fluid must be replaced with fresh fluid and the problem is solved.

I have received over 100 phone calls from people as far away as Jamaica (you know who you are and thanks for the gift card) so I figured someone should post some help as I have received calls from frustrated Technicians and Drivers a like . I had a post on Allexperts.com, that includes our shops phone number and I would say it has been one or two calls a week.

 I am always happy to help out my fellow Technicians who just want to take care of their customers. I also have heard the other end of the spectrum where after the belts were replaced on their Subaru Outback and the noise showed up they have been charged a lot of money to replace parts that did not need to be replaced. Quite a few times a frustrated vehicle owner has sought out help on the Internet and found me.

 To the Automotive Professionals out there, help each other first of all and use the Internet to seek out those who no more about the subject than you do. Also while we are all human and do make mistakes and there is always a lot of pressure to be perfect, at least exhaust all of your resources prior to guessing. If some can find the answer to the problem online then we all can. 

I have personal experience with this issue.  I know Subaru’s so well, and one thing they are not prone for is power steering aeration, with that knowledge,  I was able to  problem solve my way to the fix.  Subaru Owners, if this has or does happen to you. Most likely no one is trying to defraud you; they just haven’t experienced the issue before and are now forced to learn.

Thank you for reading.

Justin Stobb

Your Independent Subaru Specialist

  Here is the fan belt shroud in question.

  This is the upper alternator/ power steering belt  shroud retaining bolt. 

   This is the power steering return line bracket going into the pump.

  Here is the alternator pivot bolt that must be loosened to put the “slack” back into the shroud. 

A while back there were two companies, one that built an SUV and another that built tires for said SUV. Basically the two companies really didn’t put there heads together when it came to the tire pressure requirements of the SUV and the stability of the tire at a specific tire pressure. While the two companies fought and pointed fingers in and out of court what was really evident to a lot of auto professionals is just how inept our society has become at some pretty basic stuff like checking the tires on our cars. As a result we have had some very unfortunate events that caused vehicle rollover related deaths and injuries. This set of circumstances has led us to legislation and regulation that has added a new safety feature for all 2007 and newer vehicles sold in the U.S. This new system is called the tire pressure monitoring system, meant to keep you the driver informed if you have a low or flat tire. The systems can be found on some 06 models such as the Subaru Tribeca. There is a sensor at each wheel that emits an “rf” type frequency to a control module that interprets that signal into a pressure reading that is displayed on the dash board. Anytime the tires are rotated the module must be informed or calibrated to the new position of the wheels. Reason being that as the tire is moved closer or further from the module, the strength of frequency changes and that is the key to how the system works as the tire becomes low the signal emitted from the sensor is weaker. It used to be that part of owning a vehicle included some maintenance done by the vehicle owner such as checking tire pressure, engine oil levels, lights etc. If the owner of the vehicle didn’t want to deal with the maintenance themselves they took the vehicle to the corner service station. Well the corner service station went out of business years ago; replaced by quick lubes filled with kids that don’t take your car as serious as they should or just don’t have the proper knowledge or the time and tire pressure often goes unchecked. Add to that, our current hectic pace of life doesn’t always lend itself to having enough energy to go out and look the car over. Maybe we just don’t know where to start and don’t have the time or interest to learn.. It used to be, in high school there was an auto shop program that taught the basics and in other places such as most of Europe this is still the case prior to obtaining a drivers license. We don’t teach how to maintain a car anymore so no one knows. Ask your self if you think the average 16 year old obtaining a drivers license today is well equipped to change a flat tire out on the road or even inflate tires to the proper pressure. While I do think it is very important to keep vehicles safe I am also very concerned with our ever seeming rush to add systems to cars that won’t really resolve the real issues we have facing us on the road. Here is the reality; the tire pressure monitoring systems is only useful if it isn’t ignored. A lot of vehicle owners still think the check engine light comes on at a predetermined mileage rather than indicate a problem, even though the owner’s manual states otherwise. A tire pressure monitoring system that would also govern the vehicle speed to less than 50 mph if the car has a low tire would really add safety not just create the illusion of it. What I hope is that with a little increased education we can create better informed drivers, and create more safety on the road, rather than add expensive systems. Some vehicles have a low oil level sensor in the oil pan meant to inform the customer that the engine is very low on oil. Now if this also didn’t allow the vehicle to start until the level was corrected we would replace less engines as a result of running them out of oil. But that’s not how most warning systems work as it could greatly inconvenience the driver. We have invested in the proper tools and training at our shop to deal with the tire pressure monitoring systems as we are committed to servicing our customers cars properly. But we think that additional steps need to be taken to keep drivers informed. Or our cars are going to look like airplane cockpits with all the new systems we may add in the future. And lets face it the more there is to look at on the dash the less our eyes are on the road.

If you or someone you know has a car involved in the flood, here are some tips that will help you avoid a bigger problem.

If there is any chance that the engine has ingested any water at all it must not be started until the water is drained from the motor. Next it is very important to try and dry moisture from any and all electrical engine control components prior to starting the vehicle as well as removing moisture from the distributor (if equipped). The transmission and differential fluids should be drained and serviced as well to prevent failure as a result of water. The engine air filter should be removed and inspected and most likely replaced as well.

The interior of the vehicle must be allowed to dry out and this may include removing the seats and carpet and removing all moisture to prevent mold from growing. Depending on what year the vehicle was produced it may have numerous, and expensive control modules that need to have moisture removed from them as well. Not to mention miscellaneous switches and relays as well. The more you can dry out these electrical items the better chance you have of salvaging them.

A few driving tips. Even if you drive a Subaru with All Wheel Drive, approach any standing water on the roadway with caution, take it slow. Driving through water at to fast of a rate of speed is typically how excessive water is ingested into an engine which will damage the motor very quickly. Remember we’re not talking about fording a river that is running swiftly we are only talking about standing water on a road way, you wont float away. In the event you are approaching a stream or river of running water over the road way, unless you are experienced and comfortable driving through it it’s probably better to drive around it, if possible.

If you are in the market for a used car, be extra careful in the next few months that the prospect car wasn’t involved in the floods.

Justin Stobb

All Wheel Drive Auto