Comments on: Seattle Subaru Check Engine Light Part II http://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-subaru-check-engine-light-part-ii/ Mon, 21 May 2012 19:02:11 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: Karl C http://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-subaru-check-engine-light-part-ii/#comment-24142 Karl C Thu, 28 Oct 2010 06:08:56 +0000 http://allwheeldriveauto.com/?p=388#comment-24142 Oh yeah - 2003 Forester X... sorry Oh yeah – 2003 Forester X… sorry

]]> By: Karl C http://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-subaru-check-engine-light-part-ii/#comment-24138 Karl C Thu, 28 Oct 2010 05:57:12 +0000 http://allwheeldriveauto.com/?p=388#comment-24138 Interesting notes on the p030x. I just popped a solid CEL with P0304. This happened as it has started to get cold in the morning and when we first start the vehicle it shudders and sputters like not all cylindars are firing. Once I give it a few seconds, then rev, everything seems fine. If the car is "warm" then startup is fine, but if left for a few hours same problem with idle hesitation at startup. P0304 was code I pulled (cyl4 misfire of type1). Solid CEL. I do clear, but it comes back after a couple of drives.... I am looking to help narrow this down before taking in, and was planning to pull plugs, then swap spark plug wires to see if problem follows wire/etc... I did have an overheating condition happen last year that took me a bit of time to resolve- finally narrowed down to the thermostat (this was very intermittent), and also replaced radiator cap, and hose line to expansion tank (saw a split, so not pulling liquid back into radiator when cooling). Anyway, wrt to the comments on burnt/damaged valves, would a dry compression test validate that these were okay so I can move onto something else as the culprit? More curiously, how can I prove (yes or no) this is a HG issue? I am just deeply suspicious of the cooling system as I seem to lose random amts of fluid on a, yes, random basis - and yet a liquid combustion leak test kit (napa) is not showing anything as far as I can see. No visible leaks. Oil is good - just changed it last weekend. And yet... there seems to be a sweat smell from the exhaust when started in the morning that clears up.... 116k miles - and NO I have not yet changed the timing belt (but still looks good) as I was hoping to make sure the high heat issue was resolved in case it was a HG - in which case doing these with the timing belt would be most cost effective. Any advice appreciated.... Also, if you happen to know a good subaru specialist in the bay area, I would be interested. I have a few leads on a couple from some other subaru owners I trust.... Thanks! Karl Interesting notes on the p030x. I just popped a solid CEL with P0304.

This happened as it has started to get cold in the morning and when we first start the vehicle it shudders and sputters like not all cylindars are firing. Once I give it a few seconds, then rev, everything seems fine. If the car is “warm” then startup is fine, but if left for a few hours same problem with idle hesitation at startup. P0304 was code I pulled (cyl4 misfire of type1). Solid CEL. I do clear, but it comes back after a couple of drives….

I am looking to help narrow this down before taking in, and was planning to pull plugs, then swap spark plug wires to see if problem follows wire/etc… I did have an overheating condition happen last year that took me a bit of time to resolve- finally narrowed down to the thermostat (this was very intermittent), and also replaced radiator cap, and hose line to expansion tank (saw a split, so not pulling liquid back into radiator when cooling).

Anyway, wrt to the comments on burnt/damaged valves, would a dry compression test validate that these were okay so I can move onto something else as the culprit? More curiously, how can I prove (yes or no) this is a HG issue? I am just deeply suspicious of the cooling system as I seem to lose random amts of fluid on a, yes, random basis – and yet a liquid combustion leak test kit (napa) is not showing anything as far as I can see. No visible leaks. Oil is good – just changed it last weekend. And yet… there seems to be a sweat smell from the exhaust when started in the morning that clears up….

116k miles – and NO I have not yet changed the timing belt (but still looks good) as I was hoping to make sure the high heat issue was resolved in case it was a HG – in which case doing these with the timing belt would be most cost effective.

Any advice appreciated….

Also, if you happen to know a good subaru specialist in the bay area, I would be interested. I have a few leads on a couple from some other subaru owners I trust….

Thanks!

Karl

]]> By: Justin Stobb http://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-subaru-check-engine-light-part-ii/#comment-16529 Justin Stobb Wed, 01 Sep 2010 00:22:57 +0000 http://allwheeldriveauto.com/?p=388#comment-16529 Hi Damien, Thats a pretty big list. Gotta stop driving it if the temperature gauge is moving off of its normal position. A blinking check engine light is another reason to stop driving it, until you can have it diagnosed locally. Because the misfires are all cylinders and there is no lean or rich code set in correlation its going to be a challenge , the P0420 is most likely being set as the catalyst cant function in the state the car is running in now. The only real advise I have is to have it looked locally by a Subaru Guy. Justin Hi Damien,

Thats a pretty big list. Gotta stop driving it if the temperature gauge is moving off of its normal position.

A blinking check engine light is another reason to stop driving it, until you can have it diagnosed locally.

Because the misfires are all cylinders and there is no lean or rich code set in correlation its going to be a challenge , the P0420 is most likely being set as the catalyst cant function in the state the car is running in now.

The only real advise I have is to have it looked locally by a Subaru Guy.

Justin

]]> By: Damien C http://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-subaru-check-engine-light-part-ii/#comment-16448 Damien C Tue, 31 Aug 2010 01:21:18 +0000 http://allwheeldriveauto.com/?p=388#comment-16448 Hi Justin, Nice post. I have a 2002 Outback LL Bean 3.0 H6. OBD II is showing the P0420 as well as the P0301 thru P0306. The check engine light usually blinks for a few seconds after a cold start, during which the car shakes a little...then it settles down, the CELight goes solid and everything seems normal. Also, not sure if this is related, when idling the temperature goes very high, sometimes into the red. Do you have any suggestions for where to start looking? Thanks! Hi Justin,
Nice post. I have a 2002 Outback LL Bean 3.0 H6. OBD II is showing the P0420 as well as the P0301 thru P0306. The check engine light usually blinks for a few seconds after a cold start, during which the car shakes a little…then it settles down, the CELight goes solid and everything seems normal. Also, not sure if this is related, when idling the temperature goes very high, sometimes into the red. Do you have any suggestions for where to start looking? Thanks!

]]> By: Giinny Hoth http://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-subaru-check-engine-light-part-ii/#comment-14429 Giinny Hoth Wed, 11 Aug 2010 03:14:08 +0000 http://allwheeldriveauto.com/?p=388#comment-14429 I'd bring the 1004 forester in but we are in NY I’d bring the 1004 forester in but we are in NY

]]> By: Giinny Hoth http://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-subaru-check-engine-light-part-ii/#comment-14428 Giinny Hoth Wed, 11 Aug 2010 03:12:40 +0000 http://allwheeldriveauto.com/?p=388#comment-14428 My husband replaced the O2 sensor because the CE light came on code P0032 ce light still on code P0032 HO25 bank 1 sensor 1 heater circuit high any suggestions?? My husband replaced the O2 sensor because the CE light came on code P0032 ce light still on code P0032 HO25 bank 1 sensor 1 heater circuit high any suggestions??

]]> By: Ann Hartley http://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-subaru-check-engine-light-part-ii/#comment-7056 Ann Hartley Mon, 25 Jan 2010 17:35:15 +0000 http://allwheeldriveauto.com/?p=388#comment-7056 I got my 2004 WRX inspected this weekend (not by a Subaru dealer), and now the Check Engine light is on, constantly. I am taking it in to a Subaru place for an oil change - is this something that is normal and easy, or a big UH OH? I know you can't tell without seeing the car, but what's your first thought? Thanks I got my 2004 WRX inspected this weekend (not by a Subaru dealer), and now the Check Engine light is on, constantly. I am taking it in to a Subaru place for an oil change – is this something that is normal and easy, or a big UH OH? I know you can’t tell without seeing the car, but what’s your first thought? Thanks

]]> By: Laura B. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-subaru-check-engine-light-part-ii/#comment-6742 Laura B. Mon, 11 Jan 2010 21:40:48 +0000 http://allwheeldriveauto.com/?p=388#comment-6742 Thank you for an excellent post about the check engine light. I have a 2000 Subaru Forester S with a frozen odometer reading of 207,098 miles on it. CEL came on when the cruise control/speedometer/odometer died. Mechanic told me that the speed sensors in front and rear needs to be replaced, so I'll go back next week when they get the parts, but after reading your post, I emailed the mechanic asking what codes showed up during the diagnostics. Unfortunately there are no Subaru experts in these parts (west Texas in the land of Chevy & Ford trucks)... It would have been nice to bring my car to your shop. :) Laura B. Thank you for an excellent post about the check engine light. I have a 2000 Subaru Forester S with a frozen odometer reading of 207,098 miles on it. CEL came on when the cruise control/speedometer/odometer died.

Mechanic told me that the speed sensors in front and rear needs to be replaced, so I’ll go back next week when they get the parts, but after reading your post, I emailed the mechanic asking what codes showed up during the diagnostics. Unfortunately there are no Subaru experts in these parts (west Texas in the land of Chevy & Ford trucks)… It would have been nice to bring my car to your shop.
:)
Laura B.

]]> By: Jim Dietzler http://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-subaru-check-engine-light-part-ii/#comment-5626 Jim Dietzler Wed, 04 Nov 2009 22:19:24 +0000 http://allwheeldriveauto.com/?p=388#comment-5626 I'm having a problem with my wife's 2004 Outback 2.5l. It was due--now overdue for inspection, service engine light was lit. I'm pretty handy, have worked on a wide variety of autos etc. It coded out to the downstream O2 sensor, which I replaced and pulled the negative battery cable to reset the light, which it did. Now though, I've put over 100 miles on it on at least a dozen drives and it will not recognize the catalytic and evap monitors. For the emissions inspection, 2 unrecognized monitors will result in a fail. Since I DIY'd it, I do not have enough money spent on it to get a waiver. I'd have to pay a shop to fail it, then they have to get a waiver, then do the repairs that have already been done, then turn it over to me to drive until it recognizes the monitors ... Crazy! At this point, it has not been inspected, if i can get it to recognize the monitors, all is good. Chilton's states that it requires 40 on/off cycles each with at least 40 degree temp gain and reaching 160 degrees for it to recognize the monitors. This seems way too many. Have you encountered this, or is there a step or something I'm missing? I’m having a problem with my wife’s 2004 Outback 2.5l. It was due–now overdue for inspection, service engine light was lit. I’m pretty handy, have worked on a wide variety of autos etc. It coded out to the downstream O2 sensor, which I replaced and pulled the negative battery cable to reset the light, which it did. Now though, I’ve put over 100 miles on it on at least a dozen drives and it will not recognize the catalytic and evap monitors. For the emissions inspection, 2 unrecognized monitors will result in a fail. Since I DIY’d it, I do not have enough money spent on it to get a waiver. I’d have to pay a shop to fail it, then they have to get a waiver, then do the repairs that have already been done, then turn it over to me to drive until it recognizes the monitors … Crazy! At this point, it has not been inspected, if i can get it to recognize the monitors, all is good. Chilton’s states that it requires 40 on/off cycles each with at least 40 degree temp gain and reaching 160 degrees for it to recognize the monitors. This seems way too many. Have you encountered this, or is there a step or something I’m missing?

]]> By: Karl http://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-subaru-check-engine-light-part-ii/#comment-5211 Karl Sun, 04 Oct 2009 19:30:11 +0000 http://allwheeldriveauto.com/?p=388#comment-5211 I can't find the first Check Light article. Can you provide a link to it? thanks I can’t find the first Check Light article. Can you provide a link to it?

thanks

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