Seattle Subaru CV Boots And Axle Problems Explained
One of the more common repairs we make to Subaru’s are CV (Constant Velocity) boots. Pictured below is a CV or Drive axle on a Subaru. Subaru actually calls the inner joint and boots DOJ (Dual Offset Joint) and the outer joints and boots CV. The typical industry term is inner and outer CV boots and joints and CV axle. A CV axle being a complete assembly consisting of the inner and outer joints and connecting shaft. There is one CV axle per drive wheel. On a modern Subaru there are 4 CV or drive axles. For the purpose of this article I am going to refer to everything as CV.
Whichever name they go by, the joint’s job is basically to allow flex or movement out of the drive axle and pretty much every front wheel drive or in the case of your Subaru, All Wheel Drive utilizes this design. The job of the CV boot is to keep the lubricating grease inside the joints and the environment out of the joints as well.
The boots are made out of rubber and do not last forever just like belts and hoses wear out, crack or become weak with age and time so do the axle boots. The right side CV boot on the front of most non turbo 4 cylinder models is the most prone to failure as it sits very close to the exhaust and heat plays a part in the failure. Typically when this boot fails grease is sprayed onto the exhaust and causes a very strong smell. There are many different ways in which a CV boot can fail from clamp failure a full rip or tear of the boot. The single best way to approach this repair is to re boot the existing O.E. Subaru axle prior to the CV joint failing. Repairing the boot failure prior to the joint running out of grease, or dirt and grit entering the joint will allow a more economical and a better, longer lasting repair than what I am about to talk about next.
A very typical thing we see is a tire or general repair shop taking out an axle for a CV boot failure and installing a “Brand New made in China” axle. This can start a lot of trouble in many cases. The quality of the CV axles made in China is very suspect to say the least. We have seen everything from vibrations at idle and very pronounced vibrations under load to boots that last just a year before they tear open again as compared to the original boots that lasted 5 to 6 years on average. Now as the suspension ages the boots may not last as long as the first set of boots but a boot that won’t make it a year without issue is really low quality. Vibration problems can be a biggie with aftermarket axles as well this can be under acceleration, turning or even just at idle. Excessive play in the inner joint allows the inner portion of the joint to move back and forwards within the inner joint housing is typically the cause of this.
Next is the one size fits all axle we see so often, with the incorrect inner sealing ring installed. We have seen this cause premature failure of wheel bearings by not providing the proper seal where the CV axle fits into the wheel bearing, seals and hub. Aftermarket parts vendors try to keep costs down by eliminating part numbers and providing one axle that can be used in both ABS(Anti Lock Brake System) and Non ABS both. The difference being the Toner ring installed on the axle outer CV joint. The toner ring spins with the axle; a sensor interprets this as a speed and inputs information back to the ABS module. By coming up with an axle that can physically be installed in either application the Aftermarket parts maker has reduced its inventory and production costs, good for their business but not so good for your Subaru. A large supplier of axles has also decided that because the older 2 wheel drive axle used by Subaru many years ago which was larger in size and believed to be stronger, has decided for you that your newer Subaru should have a 2 Wheel drive axle installed regardless of the fact that this puts the inner cv boot much closer to the exhaust and it will fail very quickly the 2 wheel drive axle in the earlier years was larger in diameter than the AWD axles.
Remanufactured axles have mostly gone away, Subaru has had a here now gone tomorrow Remanufactured axle program that has had some quality control issues as well and they are a bit pricey. A new axle from Subaru is typically over $500.00 and not always available. There used to be better solutions but the flood of cheap priced aftermarket parts brought down the price to repair but really brought down the quality of the repair with it.
It is much easier to just swap out axles and there are plenty of shops that employ Tech’s that may be scared of taking apart the axle or may not have the right tools to do the job. Or a shop may look at the potential profit of installing a low cost axle and not care that much about how long the repair lasts. Another real possibility is just plain lack of understanding. The O.E. Subaru axle that came in the car when it was new is much superior in quality to anything that can be purchased in the aftermarket and much better than a Subaru Remanufactured axle as well. Catching the boot failure early when the boot is starting to crack will keep the costs down and yield a much better repair.
This is another reason to not take your Subaru to a quick lube center for an oil change, while they will always catch a dirty air filter and suggets a transmission flush, but since they can’t repair cv boots, they won’t know what to look for, if they look at all.
Below are some pictures of some axles.
This is an AWD axle next to a 2WD axle, you can see the difference in size.
New Cv boot on an original Subaru axle
A torn open inner boot and a joint that has grit and grime inside of it now.
New Cv boot installed on the inner joint of an O.E. Subaru axle
Thanks for reading
Justin
I wished I’d read your article on Subaru Boots and axle problems awhile ago. I had one of those “aftermarket” (unknown to me) axles put on my cars front right and although it seemed to aleviate the immediate problem, more problems are arrising. I then had to have a new bearing (probably the original problem) and now the wheel makes little rubber squeaky noises and tends to grab when I turn it sharply. I feel like I need to start over from scratch!
We also replaced our front right side axel and now have bearing issues on the left wheel.
I am wondering if there is a connection. I am no car techie so have to rely on the folks unfortunately
No problems yet with my 2003 outback, but now I know what to watch for.
Don, Salem, OR
Have had boots replaced twice on my ’01 Forester. The first time it was caught by the strong smell of burning grease. The second time there was an engine noise that sounded like a spark plug miss firing. It only happened on acceleration under a load. Turned out to be dirt in the axel after the boot failed. My repair shop in Califoria now routinely replaces boot AND axle as needed. And they only use Subaru parts.
just this week the right side inner boot cracked, and i,m on a fence post about which way to go ,lucky for me i caught it when the smell started. Am i better off to replace the whole axle or since i did catch it early just replace the boot i have put more grease in through the crack and will do everyday until i make the repair 2003 outback wagon with 70,000 miles–BOB
its not really up to you to decide… if the shop removes the axle and prepares for a new boot, if there is wear on the inside they should not do anything but replace the axle … anything less would be crappy busines!!!
thanks for the tips my forester had ripped both front boots @110k miles was putting grease in them for 2 weeks until i could change them used duralast reman axles @ about 125k miles rf wheel bearing failed on a trip from brooklyn to florida damaged the hub too fixed that with the help of some friends had this popping sound until i changed them the out for another set now the rf is making clicking sounds under light braking i know why now going to get genuine oem from now on out thanks
Great info..I rate it an 11 on a 10 point scale!
I have just obtained a 2005 Baja stick(74K miles) from a brother-in-law and he told me he put the china “Garbage’ CV boots/axles on the car and I should replace them in 10K miles. In second gear from 2000rpm to 3000rpm, there is a quite noticable shudder vibration, and a longer range if under a load going up a hill. ALso, with the let up of the accelerator, there is a looseness in drive train…are these from the driveshafts or something else??? Thanks
Gary
Get rid of the Made in China Axles, either buy used Subaru Cores at a wrecking yard or Brand new Axles from Subaru.
If you allow it to vibrate you take the chance of damaging the drive train.
Justin
Or just buy American and you will not have this issue!!
Eric,
The Cliche “buy american” is great in principle and I am all for supporting American business, but unfortunately in the “Global Economy” There is no way to buy American when it comes to cars. The big 3 US automakers merely assemble components made in other countries and worse many US domestic Vehicles are actually made in Mexico and Canada.
Justin
I change my own oil to save money and have never inspected my cv joints. Now, with 90k miles on my 2002 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, I suspect my rear cv joints have gohne bad. The only symptom is that at very low speed – like while slowing down to a stop or backing up – I hear and feel a faint but distinct bumpy, grinding noise. I am living from paycheck to paycheck which means i really need to keep this car in good shape but it also means I have no money to spare. I’m concerned enough now that I’m willing to pay a shop for a diagnosis (cv joints? shocks? differential?): would you recommend the dealer (far away, more expensive, and requirng me to make special transportation arrangementw for getting to work) or a local repair shop that seems to do good work and be honest?
Hi Bill,
It would be very unusual to replace cv joints on the rear of a Subaru.
You are actually most likely describing Torque binding, if you have an automatic transmission vehicle.
You want a Subaru expert to look at it or the diagnoses may be incorrect.
Justin
Great article. I have owned 6 Subarus over the last 25 years, and needless to say, I have gone through my share of CV boots and CV joints. After reading your analysis, I think I know why. My mechanic has been trying to save me money by using after market CV boots.
How much should it cost to replace CV boot?? I need one on my front right…
It’s a 1999 subaru outback
thanks!!
So as a mechanic at an independent shop, we just encountered a 97 legacy 2.2 AWD which had new aftermarket axles installed at another shop, and is now complaining of a vibration. What method would you recommend to isolate the problem. We are a little leary to tell the customer to take their car back to the other shop. It would look bad if big $$ was spent on genuine subaru axles and the problem remained.
Hi Chris,
You can take the axles out and inspect the axles for movement if its a vibration its usually the inner.
As we both know, if it wasn’t there before, than the axles is the most likely cause, but also an iffy wheel bearing can reveal it self during the course of the repair as well.
But to answer your question, for us here, we know what a “bad axle” feels like VS a wheel or differential bearing.
Sorry
Justin
I just replaced my front left inner driveshaft and used a $50 replacement from CostLess to fix the sheared inner CV boot and now less than two days later, I have the exact same problem…what would cause the boot to fail so quickly???
Hi Tim,
You bought a $50.00 Dollar Axle from an after market Supplier, most likely made in China this as compared to $400.00 for a new Axle from Subaru.
As I have mentioned in the article the Chinese axles in you car leave a lot to be desired.
When you save money on a part, there is a good chance if you don’t know what you are buying you are buying a very inferior component. You may get another axle and it may last a few months, but there just is no aftermarket axle that will hold up as well as the original axle that used in Your Subaru during the course of production has.
While I understand trying to save money, there has to be a balance between cost and value.
Im just not sure what else I can say
Justin
Help!
My 05 Sub Baja check engine light went on. Took it to Prec Tune because they had just changed the oil and I thought the problem may be related. I needed new boots and axels. Done. Next day, while driving I hear a clunking noise that gets faster as accelerate.I go back have another new, aftermarket set put on but same thing happens. Then they think it’s the trans, so I go to trans specialist but they can’t resolve and don’t think it’s trans. Next I finally go to my mechanic and they think it’s a poor axel and I should get another brand. I go back to Prec Tune. Reluctantly they will replace but want to buy the same brand again! I say “No!Buy a different brand.”
I could use some help here. Subaru parts are so expensive.
Thx.
Patty
hi,
Is this a repair that if there’s one bad CV all the other should be replaced?
thanks.
Hello D Windsor,
There is no easy answer to that question.
We typically try to catch the boots when they are cracking, So if we see one boot on one axle we at a minimum will suggest both boots on one axle.
Justin
I have 00′s RS, the dealer told me to get their Subaru Remanufactured one ($148 vs oem new $500) and they told me they are just as good as the OEM.
Is this true? Is tough because the saving of a brand new oem.
Thanks,
Kin
Kint,
The O.E. Subaru Axle lasted 12 years in your RS.
There is not much chance the Subaru Reman will last that long. They have not been proven too! So I dont know how any one can say that, I will tell you I prefer the Subaru Reman Over a Chinese Aftermarket though.
It will take a couple of years for me to be right, but the other side of this situation is there can be other issues that pop up as a result of the Reman Axle.
Justin
Justin,
I have a 2004 Subaru Outback with 94000 miles. I had my trusted local mechanic replace the front driver side axle 3 mos. ago upon a loud clunking sound when turning left. The clunking returned, he replaced the axle but to no avail ( i returned the part, he returned my $), I now had clunking on rights, lefts & at hi speed. Took it to the Dealer who replaced both front axles & boots with a non-Subaru part that they have had a good track record with. They assured me this would work. They gave me a one year warranty. I am still experiencing the clunking, now just driving at low speed. This was just done last week. What to do now?
May be its not the Axle?
Usually the way it works is you take the car in, someone diagnoses the noise, gives you an estimate on what it will take to correct the vehicle, you authorize the repairs, the car is repaired you pay the bill and drive away with a repaired vehicle.
Our shop just like all of my local competitors offers a warranty so would a Subaru Dealer, I would start with inquiring there.
Justin
Of course the independent mechanic and the Subaru dealer who have worked on the car have diagnosed the problem as worn out axles. My feeling is that the non OEM axles are just not machined to the exact size of the Subaru parts resulting in too much play and thus the clunking. The problem is that neither mechanic or dealer take the car for a test drive after the repair. I have also recently rotated the tires and had the wheels balanced and then front wheels re-balanced upon the second axle repair. At this point I am about to give up on the car and buy new. The problem is that I really like my car and would prefer to fix it. Should I just have the axles replaced with Subaru parts?
We dont use Aftermarket Axles unless their is no other options such as the customer cant afford the new ones from Subaru.
I prefer to purchase wrecking yard cores and put together our own axles as we can, this always depends on availability of good cores, right now for example we are having a tough go buying 1995 to 1999 axles from the wrecking yards.
If you dont mind the cost and really want the BEST repair you can buy I would purchase 2 brand new axles from Subaru , Not the Remanufactured by A1 Cardone versions but actual new axles which are also becoming harder to locate, for us they always seem to be on the East coast and we have to wait for days.
I have been as we speek been working with a parts supplier on a new Japanese made axle for the Subaru, the situation in Japan will cause a delay, the axles we demoed were good replacements s s except fot the outer boot material wasn’t up to our standards, we replaced the boot and put the axle in most of the loaners cars at the shop and have really put them through the paces and the axles so far have proven to be finally a good quality no vibration solution. The axles will cost about 65% of what a new axle from Subaru costs but more importantly will be available which the new axles from Subaru will not be for much longer only the Reman ones.
I would for now so you dont do any drive train damage go with 2 new Subaru Axles.
Justin
Can you provide info on the Japanese made axle- i.e. where can they be obtained, cost, etc. I am on east coast (Maine) and apparently in need of axles for a 2005 Forrester XT.
Thanks so much for this thread- it has been a life saver for me, as I had no knowledge of this repair, even though this is my 5th Subaru. Have replaced CV boots on previous cars, but this is new to me.
Carole Bailey
The Subaru dealer will sell you a Original Equipment Subaru Axle new, but you have to specify new and not reman.
Justin
hey…
ive been ignoring this problem of my car for years. im in the military and always busy at work. now i have a chance to fit it or get it fix. i have an 04 STi and i think i have a problem on my CV joint also. I was reading all the threads in your website and they are all very helpful. So you are advising everybody to get the Subaru OEM axle which as around $400.00 better that the china made one. I probably agree to that one also… Now if i have to get that fix, how much approximately would be the cost to get it installed by a professional. If i am doing it my self, where can i buy besides the dealer an OEM Subaru axle for my car? If i have to do it, is there any website or instructions that i can follow that you can recommend so that i can install it myself the right way?
Your thread is really helpful and i appreciate your help..
The New Subaru Unit is the best way to go, We dont have a Do it your self guide published any where for this, but if you head over to some of the Forums you may find what you are looking for there.
Justin
Justin,
Thanks for the thread, this kind of stuff has been helping a lot lately with maintenance. I am with Carole Bailey from Maine in wanting to know more about the Japanese axles, as I am from the mountains of Pennsylvania. Subaru driver for 27 years, 27 years of taking care of my CV boots. I just had my wheels aligned at a local shop. 2 weeks later I went to change my oil, lo and behold there is grease sprayed about the wheel well from a small hole in the boot. Bastard probably had a wrench slip. Hope he got a bloody knuckle… I’d like to tackle replacing the boot myself. Please point me in the direction of the best replacement boot and advice on the technical part of the replacement. Really appreciate your time on these things…..Mike
I like the Empi boot kit or The O.E. Subaru boot.
As far as a Japanese axle the Tsunami put that on hold there is no supply as of right now.
Justin
Own a 1998 Subaru Impreza Outback. The passenger side DOJ boot just went at 115k miles. Smoked and smelled real bad, but you could look down and see the crack in th boot and the pile of grease on the car frame. Sprayed around inside the engine compartment a bit. Subaru dealership quoted $320 to replace and repair.
Justin, I replaced the cv boot on the left front. No problem. While I was in there I noticed a slight leak in the axle seal. I’ll be the first to say it… I did what should never be done, I moved the plate to replace the O-ring but forgot to mark it (or count the turns for that matter) I know, I know. I’ll wear the hat of shame for a few weeks… Now what do I need to do to fix it? Is there a torque that the axle should rotate at? I would love to bring it to you but I think the shipping charges would be a little high from TN. lol Any help would be great (or even a point in the right direction) lol Many thanks, Stephen
That’s a tough one, there is a pre-load that needs to be established, that’s not one that I can guide your through I am afraid. I would buy a one day pass at all data or the like and down load the differential section of the service manual.
Sorry I cant offer more
Justin
Actually, That is just what I needed to hear!!! I was headed to buy a factory manual but thought I’d give you a shout just in case there was a magic number I needed to obtain… Every place I have searched on the web says “Don’t do this” but offers no fix if you have gone past that point. A few of your posts have saved my bacon in the past. Thank you for being such a valuable asset to the Subby lovers. Many thanks again! On a side note, how can I get one of your shop stickers? I would GLADLY support your business (even from the deep south). lol
That would be great, if you wanted to use the contact form and send your address ill send you a sticker, very happily I might add.
Justin
Hi Justin,
Your article is great. I have a 1984 GL 4X4 wagon that is in really good original shape and low orig miles but, I too have had the axle problem just recently. I’ve replaced 4 sets of front axles with the cheap aftermarket ones only to experience all of the simptoms that you have described or others have mentioned. Do you know where I can buy the OE Subaru axles? I’d gladly pay the $400-$500 dollars to get them rather than continually replace aftermarket junk with more junk. Please let me know. I’m in the Tacoma area. Thanks, Mike
Hi Mike,
There are no Subaru axles available for the Older GL’s I am afraid. I have had few readers tell me good things about Raxles.com but I to date have not used any of their products its just an option you might want to explore.
I have seen some old stock of Subaru parts show up On E-bay every once and a while but do have to stress that you really need to get the Chinese axles out before they damage your drive train.
Sorry I cant offer more, there just are not that many options for an almost 30 year old car.
Justin
I have a 2001 Forester S, and I recently went on a 800 mile road trip with a heavy friend of mine in the passenger seat. Halfway into the trip, the car just starting making a humming sound that starts getting audible around 40 mph and gets louder the faster you go. It seems to be coming from the back, though I can’t tell which side. Sounds like I’m driving with oversize tires. I suspect rear wheel bearings, side unknown. Should I take it to the dealer, or is this an easy fix for most shops? Should I ask the shop to lube them first and see if that helps? Any chance this is a rear differential problem? Thanks to anyone who responds.
Hi Jon,
The wheel bearings are not serviceable and if the have started to make noise they instead will need to be replaced. With out hearing the noise its not possible to advise on the component affected but will add that the wheel bearings are common and the differential not.
Justin
It was the wheel bearings, the left rear. Replaced it with a genuine Subaru bearing and the car is quiet again. Thanks much.
I have a 97 Outback, auto, AWD with 152k miles. I replaced the front right cv shaft and transmission mount which was broken. The cv shaft was a cheap chinese replacement.
Unfortunately the car now makes so much clattering noise from the cv shaft that I have to put almost a half an inch of spacers on the transmission crossover to drop the transmission down just to eliminate the cv clattering. I also have to run the car in FWD mode otherwise I get the same cv clattering from the front and rear shafts,like I have a bad cv joints. I am stumped, any ideas ???
Paul,
If you have a cheap Chinese axle in it and now have symptoms, the place to start is by taking the axle back out shipping it back to mainland China or throwing it away (You can decide which).
Buy a good axle not from China, from Subaru instead install it and take things from there before you tear up your drive train and have to get your wallet out for some serous repairs that can be avoided.
Or maybe you have something else entirely going on such as an issue with the Transfer clutches if its an Automatic or the Viscous coupler if its a manual? But since in your post it sounds like you are stating the issues happened since the axle I would say not?
Justin
Hello, I have a 1997 sub Imp Outback sport, and have a general question about our axles. How can one tell if the axle it’s self is bad upon removing it from the car for inpection, when replacing the CV boots. Thanks Roch
After you take the axle out, remove the boot and inspect the joint and housing for wear. That is the only way to know.
I have a 2004 Outback with 2.5L engine. I too was blindsided by my local mechanic over worn CV axles and he replaced mine with an aftermarket product. I noticed problems right away including engine vibration and binding when turning the wheels (which evolved to a squealing noise). I returned the car to the mechanic and he agreed that the axles he installed were “defective” and I insisted he replace them with Subaru parts (after visiting this site), which he claimed he did. Unfortunately, I am still having engine vibration when stopped in drive with the engine idling. I am obviously very worried about what damage these axles may have done to my car. Any ideas what could be causing this vibration? The vibration disappears when you put the transmission in neutral or park. There were no vibration issues with this car prior to the axle replacement. They had also changed the oil and added 5 full quarts instead of the recommended 4.2 quarts. I noticed the overfill right away and they drained the excess too. Could this lead to vibration issues? If this isn’t enough, the local Subaru repair shop had pointed out last year some minor seepage with both head gaskets. The car only has approximately 29,000 miles now and I have kept up with all maintenance since the car was new. They said they would monitor the situation. They also added Stop Leak earlier this year. I have not had any actual leaking, no stains on the driveway, etc. I know the older models had head gasket issues, but have you seen it in a car with such low mileage. Anyway, I need to address the vibration issue with the local mechanic; any ammunition you can arm me with?
An 04 with 29k will be more likely to have a HG issue than an 04 with 100k.
Is it possible they are just seeping oil, that’s the typical on a 2003 and newer, and if that’s the case coolant stop leak wont help an oil leak.
As far as the axles go, unless you paid $450.00 to $500.00 a side you don’t Have new Subaru Axles.
If the boots are replaced on your original axles prior to joint failure you wont have any problem, if not and the axles are replaced with made in China, or Subaru Reman in Mexico you will have a problem.
There really isn’t any thing else I can say about the axles its cut and dry in my opinion. I feel bad that you have had to deal with the Vibration issue I dont know if your axles had questionable joints or if the shop has a ” afraid to take axles apart mentality”.
I will tell you its a very competitive business with low customer loyalty, do to price concerns the shop may have a “replace the axle with made in china” policy to be competitive with what everyone else quotes out, save for a few top tier shops. I know this doesn’t completely excuse the chines axle in place of a made in Japan component but i am merely trying to provide some insight into the industry.
Justin
Hi Justin! First, many thanks for your site. I’ve bookmarked you and made you my new best friend. I recently acquired my beloved ’99 Forester who was having the right rear wheel bearing issue when I got her. My mechanic replaced it and she was great. Then the front left axle started clicking at left turns. I got a new axle from the parts store that I haven’t had the time to put on the car yet. I wish I’d have thought of just replacing the boots and regreasing the joints sooner so I could have avoided further damage. Just yesterday it started clicking while traveling straight. Does it sound like my Subaru axle may be too damaged to repair? Well, I’m going to look at it once it’s off the car anyway. I’m definitely not using this most-likely Chinese axle. I’ll return it and hit a few local junkyards to pull another Subaru axle to repair in case I can’t fix the one I have. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us and I’ll be reading more soon!
hey Justin,
bit the bullet and bought a 380$ new axle from the dealership for my 05′ outback(last one). For anyone out there who thinks they can go to autozone and buy a 75$ axle and have good luck your crazy. These parts are machined for a precise fit and continued reliability BY SUBARU!!.
John,
Thanks for posting your Experience
Justin
Hey Justin,
I have an 02 WRX. I had a failure of the driver side inner CV boot, and after reading the forums I feel comfortable that I can get the axle off. You sold me on replacing the boots (not the whole axle) because of the quality concerns. So I plan on replacing all 4 front boots at the same time. But I’ve heard this can get really messy…also, the boots I bought at Napa come with a bunch of little clips and rings.
Any advice for a first timer like me on how to proceed? Do I disassemble the boots and clean all the old grease out, then regrease with the contents of the grease package provided with the boot? One forum recommended brake cleaner to finish the cleaning job, yes or no? Do I need to pay attention to the re-insertion of the axle with any particular alignment?
Thanks for any help for a newbie here!
I would return the Napa boots, and buy Subaru ones.
It needs to be disassembled, cleaned, re greased. Care must be taken to install the axles properly there is a roll pin to remove to remove the axle form the stub shaft.
Justin
Hi Justin,
Thanks for the informative article. I have an 06 STi and seem to have this problem.
I’m curious what the clicking noise is from? WHen the CV boot rips or eventually deteriorates what happens that makes the noise people often hear? Is something seizing up?
THanks for the good info!
The joints wear and develop excessive play causing the noise.
Justin
My ’03 OB Sedan had 112,000 miles on it when the right front CV starting the ominous “clicking” under power in turns, vibration, and the left front had cracks and grease on the way out.
Like some others here, as much as I love my Subaru, $500 for an assembly is not just too high, it’s irresponsible to my family to spend. I picked up 2 Cardone complete assemblies and swapped them in myself for $150 My car has several thousand smooth miles in mountainous northern calif (I drive a 17% grade everyday to work) .
I’m Certain, that a Subaru OEM new axle assy is the best, but the Cardone rebuilt assembly is a good deal – realistically, if the rebuilds were so unreliable Cardone would be out of business, and they operate just 2 hours from me in Sacramento Calif – so I support local economy this way also.
Anyone with a little auto background can change one out also – don’t be scared off the job so easily. Worst one I ever changed was rusted spline to hub and just took some Kroil, puller and time to soak in.
Great website and articles, I Love My Car!
Its $349.99 for a Subaru Axle and it will last the life of the vehicle as long as you take care of the boots before they tear open , loose the grease and the joint becomes damaged due to lack of lubrication.
The A1 is a cheaper option that someone warrantying the job themselves can take the risk on, I do not suggest anyone buy those parts and ask a shop to put them in or any shop use them. They simply will not last as long as the OE.
We have seem them break, I have never seen an OE due so under the same type of use.
I am glad you were able to make your own repair and are comfortable with the outcome.
Justin
Justin,
Thanks for all the great info! I recently bought a 04 OBW with very low miles (17,000 FL granny special). I have put 24,000 on the vehicle in the past 20 months (41,000). Last week the fan belts shredded due to the harmonic balancer seperating at the rubber mold. I fixed all of that, thanks to your info! However, the passenger cv boot cracked also at the same time. Fresh grease on the exhaust. Would you recommend rebootng (since the milage is low) or going with a remanufactured?
What a awesome site! Your information is really helpful. But at this moment a little scarey. Our 2nd vehicle is down for the count and my subaru has 265,000. miles on it. The back right hand side is making a sound similar to a cv going out but above you mentioned its most likely the tranny. I’m bringing it in to my local shop fri. to check but with my mileage. is a rear cv possible? Thanx