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Some answers to the Subaru head gasket problem.

At our shop we see a fair amount of Subaru’s with failed head gaskets. There are two separate groups or years of production that the failures fall into. The following information is aimed at educating our customers about the problems, what to look for, tips on how to avoid future problems, and what to if your Subaru has developed problems with the head gaskets.

The first group is the 1st generation 2.5l engine found predominantly in the 1996 to 1999 Outback, Legacy G.T., Forrester (up to mid year 1998) and Subaru Impreza R.S. This group usually, will develop an internal head gasket leak ultimately resulting with an overheating engine.

Early signs of head gasket failure in the 1st generation Subaru 2.5l engine will include an oily residue found in the coolant overflow bottle also possible is an exhaust, fuel or sulfur smell in the coolant over flow bottle. From there what typically happens next is intermittent higher than normal coolant temperature gauge readings, followed with intermittent overheating especially during a long freeway trip or a drive up the mountain passes.

The second group is the 2nd generation Subaru 2.2l and 2.5l engines found in the Forrester from mid year 1998, Impreza from mid year 1998, the Outback and Legacy from 2000.The early symptoms that occur in the 2nd generation engines is usually an external oil leak at both head gaskets and an external coolant leak at the left side head gasket, we have seen coolant leaks at the right side head gasket as well but at a much lower failure rate than the left side. We have seen some of the same intermittent overheating symptoms, but the bulk of the issues seem to be external leaks.

Early detection of failing head gaskets is the key to keeping the repair costs down. Typically speaking when the problem is diagnosed and repaired at the earliest signs of failure the potential for additional damage can be held to a minimum.

The problems are fairly well known, and the internet is a great tool for information. Unfortunately a lot of automotive professionals do not truly understand the potential causes of the failure. If the problem isn’t properly understood then some of the advise as to how to avoid the potential failure or reasons as to why this happened may be incomplete. This is where All Wheel Drive Auto can serve you better.

The good news!

We have yet to see a repaired and properly maintained vehicle have the same problem twice. And we feel that when the repair is done completely, it is a bump on the road to 300,000 miles.

Here is some of the technical information related to the gaskets used.

In 1996 on the 2.5l engine Subaru used a composite type head gasket similar in construction to the head gaskets found in the Subaru Legacy & Impreza 2.2l engine. Starting in 1997 and used through 1999 Subaru began to use a multi layer steel shim head gasket with a graphite type outer film. And this is where the problem has started.

What we typically see with these gaskets is that the film between the combustion chamber and the cooling jacket or passageway is compromised allowing coolant into the combustion chamber and exhaust pressure and temperature into the cooling system. Subaru has come up with an updated head gasket design that seems to be holding up well.

In mid year 1998 Subaru redesigned the 2.2l and 2.5l, most of the changes were in the cylinder heads and camshaft configurations. This design has had mostly problems with external head gasket leaks. Both oil and coolant

Tips on how to avoid or decrease the chance of failure are as follows.

1. Change the engine oil on a regular basis. As part of the normal combustion process not all of the fuel that enters the combustion chamber (this is where the compressed air fuel mixture is met with spark from the spark plug causing an explosion and creating power) is burnt, unfortunately we don’t drive vehicles that achieve 100% combustion. The unburnt fuel is scraped past the rings into the crankcase where it is mixed with the engine oil. The longer the oil is in the engine the more diluted the oil becomes with fuel. Fuel is a solvent that can eat away at seals and gaskets.

What is supposed to happen is that as the engine oil gets up to temperature the fuel will evaporate through the crankcase ventilation system into the intake manifold where it will mix with the air coming into the combustion chamber and be burnt there. But in areas such as the Puget Sound we do a lot of idling in traffic, and short trips where the oil never gets the chance to get up to the temperature needed to achieve the designed process. This is where understanding the difference between normal and severe use is crucial in car maintenance.

2. Don’t let your Subaru’s battery become a hazardous waste area. We see a lot of Subaru’s come into the shop with “chia pets of corrosion” on the top of the battery. To the point where the battery is no longer visible from the top and the cable set has been damaged. Batteries typically go three to five years before they will really start to vent out a significant amount of acid. Under normal circumstances the battery is used to start the vehicle and to power accessories when the engine is not running. Any time the battery is used it loses some of its charge.

Most Subaru owners drive their vehicles with all of the accessories on. Sometimes at idle the alternator can’t keep up with the entire electrical load put on it and some power is drained from the battery. The process of the battery being discharged and charged is ultimately what causes the acid to vent out of the battery. How does a battery effect head gaskets you ask? Without getting to far into the scientific end of it, the battery is located very close to the radiator. Coolant can become very corrosive and this is also known as electrolysis.

A battery that is covered in battery acid and corrosion will add to the level of corrosion in the cooling system. This corrosion can eat away at gaskets, seals and metal that it comes in contact with. On a 2nd generation 2.2 and 2.5l it is almost always the left side head gasket that leaks coolant externally and it is also the cylinder head gasket that is the closest to the battery. Odd, no? A properly serviced and healthy battery will decrease the possibility of the battery adding to the corrosion level of the cooling system.

3. Change your Subaru’s coolant on a regular basis. This is one of the most important things you can do to your Subaru. As discussed previously corrosive coolant can deteriorate seals and gaskets over time. The use of phosphate free anti-freeze is recommended by Subaru as well as is a coolant additive on vehicles with the 2nd generation engines.

4. Know what is being used in your Subaru. Not all auto parts, services and repairs are created equal. For example using non O.E.(original equipment) type spark plugs can create hotter or cooler combustion temperatures. The combustion temperature has a lot to do with the amount of cylinder head, and gasket expansion. Generic coolant will save you about $5.00 over O.E. coolant but is it worth it in the long run?

5. This is a biggie, and the most overlooked. If you have a new car warranty or an aftermarket warranty policy that is about to expire, have the vehicle inspected by someone who specializes in Subaru’s like All Wheel Drive Auto. The dealer is not going to call you and schedule in your Subaru for an inspection prior to the warranty expiring.

This is where All Wheel Drive Auto can truly serve your interest’s well. Calling the dealer empowered with information and documentation about leaks is much better than hoping you won’t have any problems.

Subaru utilizes the horizontal engine design and is one of the reasons that the all wheel drive system found in the Subaru is superior to the other makes and models out there. The horizontal engine platform is also a large part of what makes a Subaru a great safe vehicle and the all wheel drive and safety of a Subaru is usually what influences the decision to own one.

 On an inline engine or v engine design, when the vehicle is turned off the fluids such as coolant and oil will drain down to below the head gasket line. On a Subaru with a horizontally opposed engine when you turn the vehicle off the fluids such as the oil and coolant will remain in contact with the head gaskets. If the fluids are not in very good condition, such as outlined above, they will eat away at the head gaskets.

A Subaru can give its owner many years of trouble free life. That added with the knowledge that it will get you to where you need to go regardless of road conditions. As such we feel that the repair done correctly and a good maintenance schedule following will yield years of trouble free driving.

This is a failed 1st generation head gasket found in the Subaru 2.5l  starting in 1997.

Notice the silver area where the black film has washed away allowing coolant and cylinder pressure to exchange.  

In the above picture you can see that the upper portion of the gasket is fine.   This is an example of how gravity is part of the problem, when combined with the solvent that is fuel  and potentially corrosive coolant.

 Here we see the updated  Subaru 2.5l gasket.  

The Old vs New.  You can see the significant changes that were made in the design.

Thanks for reading.

Justin Stobb

All Wheel Drive Auto

Seattle Area Independent Subaru Expert

217 Responses to “Subaru Head Gasket Problems Explained.”

1. Brian Murphy Says:
   November 27th, 2007 at 4:27 pm

   In all my research about these head gasket problems with the Subarus, everyone keeps talking about the model years 1998-2002. What about 2003’s. I have a 2003 Forester with the 2.5 liter engine with 88,000 miles and is currently in the shop getting the HG’s replaced. If they fixed the problem in the 2003 model year, than why is it still occuring? Do you have more info on the 2003’s and their HG problems?

2. Justin Stobb Says:
   November 28th, 2007 at 12:22 am

   Hello Brian,

   We have seen some problems with the 2003 Subaru 2.5l engine having some head gasket failure, but not at nearly the same scale of the 2000 to 2002 2nd generation 2.5l. It’s hard to say if the problem is fixed for the 2003 year or not. Most of the solution has been about maintenance and using the proper type of coolant and coolant conditioner.

   Justin Stobb
   All Wheel Drive Auto

3. Jim Blizzard Says:
   December 8th, 2007 at 6:35 pm

   We have a 2004 Subaru Baja with a 2.5L. I notices oil leaking into one of the spark plug sockets when I was changing plugs. A local independent mechanic charge me $48 then told me it was possibly a defective valve cover gasket, or head gasket, and/or oil filter seal. I was referred to the dealer for service. I live in interior Alaska where the extreme cold causes widespread failure of gaskets and seals. I’ve had no other problems with the vehicle and hope it will last after the repair.

4. Justin Stobb Says:
   December 9th, 2007 at 12:06 am

   What you are describing is spark plug extension tube seals that are failing. This is pretty common to the Subaru 2.5l and I can see how the colder weather would contribute. I would suggest that when the seals are replaced a light film of a graphite or copper type grease be applied to the seal, this should help the new seals last longer than the original seals did.

5. Rick Zalewski Says:
   December 16th, 2007 at 3:43 am

   I have a 2000 subaru legacy 2.5l. I had the head gasket replaced at 100,000km and 160,000 by subaru, under warranty. The car was always maintained at recommended schedule intervals using genuine parts, plus I use synthetic oil. Now again I have the odour of anti-freeze at 200,000km, assuming the gasket is leaking again. I replaced the battery and alternator 2 years ago. Regarding your comments about short trips, I do drive about 5 min. to work and we get some cold weather in Ontario, Canada. I was hoping to keep the car 2 more years and get the 2010 model year, am not sure if it will last that long. Further, should I avoid buying a Subaru if the short drives will kill the gaskets every time. I really like the car otherwise and would want to buy another one if I can avoid having this problem. Should I get rid of the car or fix it again?

6. Justin Stobb Says:
   December 16th, 2007 at 8:31 pm

   In my opinion, your Subaru is well worth having the repair done. But you may want to look into having an independent Subaru repair shop do the next set of head gaskets. I am very surprised to see that you haven’t received the kind of mileage out of the repairs we would expect. I would suspect the repairs done at the dealer were rushed and that’s the reason the gaskets haven’t lasted.

7. Suzanne Scourby Says:
   December 24th, 2007 at 3:45 am

   I hava 1998 Subaru Outback with 135,000 and my mechanic recommends replacing the headgaskets even though there are no symptoms yet. Is that a ripoff? Or is it good preventive maintenance. I am very disappointed in my Subaru.

8. Justin Stobb Says:
   December 26th, 2007 at 4:01 pm

   Sometimes it can be better to make the repairs before all of the typical symptoms start to show up. It may save you money in the long run, especially if you don’t wait until the car starts to overheat. I do understand the frustration of having to spend money on repairs for a vehicle, but keep in mind that most cars will need some type of repair at some point in ownership. If overall you like the car, the safety and reliability of the Subaru, than it does make sense to make the repairs. You should expect to obtain many more years of life out of the vehicle.

9. Ray Says:
   January 2nd, 2008 at 4:42 pm

   I have a 1999 Legacy 30th edition with the 2.2L 8/98 engine. What brand or model number of head gasket is the best replacement for this unit. I have the heads off and can’t seem to locate anything other than the OEM gasket??

   Thanks,

10. James Magar Says:
    January 3rd, 2008 at 3:53 am

    Justin,
    I’m confused. I’ve a 2002 Subaru Outback Sport with 71,000 miles on it that’s now at Walker’s Renton Subaru with a failed left side cylinder head gasket. Subaru has extended the warranty to cover this, and will be doing the repair at Subaru’s expense (they’ll replace the left side cylinder head gasket only). You said here that, “Starting in 1997 and used through 1999 Subaru began to use a multi layer steel shim head gasket with a graphite type outer film. And this is where the problem has started.” Also, that, “In mid-year 1998 Subaru redesigned the 2.2l and 2.5l, most of the changes were in the cylinder heads and camshaft configurations. This design has had mostly problems with external head gasket leaks.”

    So, okay - then my 2002 OBS has the new cylinder gasket design, yes? And still it failed. How can a cylinder head and camshaft configuration change lead to early cylinder head gasket failure? Towards preventing this from happening again, you’ve just described what I’ve been doing all along: regular oil changes, coolant flushes, and Subaru service with OEM parts. Can I expect blown head gaskets every 70,000 miles? (This car replaced a Toyota with over 250,000 miles on it.)

11. Justin Stobb Says:
    January 4th, 2008 at 6:55 pm

    James,

    The engine in the 2002 Outback sport is considered a second generation design. The multi layered gasket I referred to in my article is the gasket used in the first generation 2.5l typically found in the 1997 to 1999 Legacy Outback, The Forrester up until mid year 1998 and the RS and Legacy GT up until the second generation engine was used in those models as well up to 06 of 1999. These gaskets will usually fail internally and eventually cause overheating.

    Your Outback sport has the second generation engine which has been plagued with external leaks. The composition of the O.E and the replacement gasket is somewhat hard to explain on paper. It is a single layer steel gasket with a composite material on either side of it.

    Why I don’t think you should expect to have to replace the head gaskets every 70k, I also need you to understand that there is a significant difference in repair techniques that ultimately will determine how long the repair will last. As far as the Toyota with 250,000, two things to consider, Toyota had a lot of problems with there V6 head gaskets in the Late 80s to the mid 90s but the internet wasn’t as popular so the word didn’t get out as much. Toyota increased the warranty mileage and time limits just as Subaru has done. Also every few years there is a technology jump, usually as a result of our efforts or government regulations to get vehicles to run cleaner. It is my belief that in efforts to clean up tailpipe emissions in the internal combustion engine we are decreasing the life of certain aspects of the vehicle as a result in higher combustion chamber temperatures and increased emissions control devices. In being involved with a few different Technician groups such as IATN, I can share with you that a lot of newer cars seem to suffer from an increased amount of problems that it had seemed we had conquered previously in regards to some of the more basic components of the engine. Lastly the coolant in your Subaru should never be flushed especially at a franchised quick lube center, there are numerous bulletins’ that talk about the potential for a flush machine being contaminated with brass and copper which can create issues for the Subaru cooling system. I do truly understand the frustration of having to have a major repair done and questioning the quality of the vehicle. But I know of plenty of frustrated vehicle owners that don’t drive Subaru’s as well, if you do a Google search for “problems with Toyota” you may see that newer cars have more problems. Cars period, can be very frustrating and bottom line is if you own a car that has a problem that car will seem suspect. I would encourage you to get through the repair and I think that you will feel better after it is all over.

    Justin

12. Justin Stobb Says:
    January 4th, 2008 at 6:56 pm

    Ray,

    You really want to stick with the O.E gasket.

    Justin

13. Tim Says:
    January 10th, 2008 at 7:00 am

    I have a 1996 Outback. I bought it with 111,000 miles. I had another shop do the major service right after I bought it. They said the head gasket was fine at that time. Anyway, I notice it smells pretty bad when I’m at a stop light sometimes after running for awhile. It doesn’t smell like oil. The car doesn’t overheat but the smell is troublesome to me. Is this common or a sign of trouble to come with the head gasket?

14. Justin Stobb Says:
    January 10th, 2008 at 11:05 pm

    Hey Tim,

    What I would suspect is that the right side axle has a leak at the inner CV boot and the grease is leaking onto the exhaust causing the smell. CV joint grease has a very strong smell to it, even more so if it gets hot.

    If you are inclined, you can raise the hood and look down at the passenger side axle shaft and should be able to visibly see grease spraying onto the exhaust and firewall. If you don’t see any signs of a leaking CV boot than it may be a good idea to have us look at it.

    Thanks and have a great day

    Justin

15. Kent Says:
    January 11th, 2008 at 9:50 pm

    1999 Forester 2.5L SOHC Sept/2004 111,000mi recall for “coolant conditioner”. Dec/2004 117,000mi left head gasket failed - external leak. Replaced by Authorized Subaru Dealer. Dec/2005 145,000mi Head gasket failed. Alignment pin crushed when gasket was installed. Engine taken apart serviced and put back together. Dec/2007 172,000mi head gasket failed - internal. I’ve had both failures from the Phase II engine. Should I try a Thermagasket product? I don’t have $3,000 for a used engine in car with 172,000mi. Where do I go from here?

16. Justin Stobb Says:
    January 12th, 2008 at 8:01 pm

    One of the things I comment on a lot is the repair technique used at the dealer. The typical repair is to replace the left side head gasket in the vehicle. It is impossible to obtain the same quality seal you would if you were to remove the engine from the vehicle and make the repair. But under warranty the only thing Subaru is going to pay for is the repair in the car. Here is why the repairs under warranty don’t seem to last as long. On a horizontally opposed engine you are constantly fighting gravity and fluids trying to drip out of the engine block also there isn’t as much room to clean and prep the engine block and a lot of technicians result to using a “whiz wheel” to clean the gasket surface rather than a block sander not to mention visibility isn’t all that good in the car as well.

    The right way to repair Subaru head gaskets is to remove the engine from the vehicle and put it on a stand. This ensures a good clean repair, the number one rule when trying to replace any gasket on any engine, is to make sure the surface is clean. The “repair it in the car method” leaves a lot to be desired.

    As far as what to do from here, are you being advised that you need an engine?

    The best advice I have, is to not have the repair done in the car. And not done by the dealer. What I think is lost, is that a vehicle repaired under warranty is going to be fixed as quick as possible, worse is that once a dealer technician is used to doing the repair a certain way that’s how it is going to be done regardless of who pays the bill.

17. James Magar Says:
    January 14th, 2008 at 3:02 am

    Justin,

    Thanks again for this website. The information you stated below is great to know and, if I decide to keep the car and a head gasket blows when the car’s out of warranty, I’ll take it to you instead of to the dealer.

    Regards,
    James

    *********************
    “But under warranty the only thing Subaru is going to pay for is the repair in the car. Here is why the repairs under warranty don’t seem to last as long. On a horizontally opposed engine you are constantly fighting gravity and fluids trying to drip out of the engine block also there isn’t as much room to clean and prep the engine block and a lot of technicians result to using a “whiz wheel” to clean the gasket surface rather than a block sander not to mention visibility isn’t all that good in the car as well.

    The right way to repair Subaru head gaskets is to remove the engine from the vehicle and put it on a stand. This ensures a good clean repair, the number one rule when trying to replace any gasket on any engine, is to make sure the surface is clean. The “repair it in the car method” leaves a lot to be desired.”

18. Doug Says:
    January 16th, 2008 at 2:57 am

    Justin,
    I have a 1997 Legacy Outback. My overheating issue is sounding more and more like what your talking about. I replaced the thermastat first but to no avail. It has 168k on the clock and before this has had no problems. My main question is, why is it sometimes after it cools down it is fine and I have plenty of heat inside the car, but during another trip, I’m over heating again and have cool air blowing? If it was a blown gasket, wouldn’t I experience the problem everytime? Thanks in advance.. Doug

19. Justin Stobb Says:
    January 16th, 2008 at 11:23 pm

    Doug,

    The very thing you are describing is just exactly what frustrates most technicians and vehicle owners a like. How can overheating from a blown head gasket be intermittent?

    Well here is why.

    When the head gasket starts to fail, combustion chamber pressure (usually around 180lbs) escapes into the cooling system past the head gasket, also bringing with it combustion chamber temperatures as well (anywhere from 500 degrees Fahrenheit and on) the cooling system is not capable of dealing with the excess temperature. This also usually happens when the engine is being pushed hard or has been driven for a while as the cylinder heads, gaskets and engine block have all expanded with heat and not all at the same rate. As the cylinder head expands away from the block a deteriorated gasket simply cannot hold back the constant cylinder pressure any longer allowing pressure and temperature into the cooling system thus causing the vehicle to over heat. Once the vehicle has cooled down and the cylinder heads and gaskets have contracted we start the cycle back up the next time we drive it to the point of expansion that the head gasket can no longer deal with. Next is that as cylinder pressure comes into the cooling system it creates tiny air pockets that decrease the efficiency of the coolant temperature sensor and the thermostat, as both need to have liquid around them at all times to function properly. This is one of the key reasons that the problem can go on for so long with out proper diagnoses. The vehicle has both a temperature sensor that the computer uses to know when to turn on the cooling fans and how much fuel to give the car based on engine temperature and it also has a temperature sending unit for the gauge in the car. If there is an air pocket trapped in the cooling system near the sensor or sending unit the readings will be inaccurate. So as the amount of air being introduced into the cooling system increases with cylinder head expansion the less effective the cooling system is at a time when the overall coolant temperature is rising. Not a great scenario.

    I hope this helps explain it.

20. Sean Meegan Says:
    January 17th, 2008 at 8:01 pm

    Thanks for a great description. Clear, scientific, and consistent with my dealer and a couple other smart techs that have helped sort through my overheating that only happens on the way to the ski resorts (I live in SLC). Can you speak a little bit toward the mountain issue - is it the air pressure change from 4800 to 8000+ feet or the demand on the engine that accounts for the penetration of exhaust gases to the coolant? I ask because I can usually drive around town and on highways for extended periods with no problem.
    Cheers!
    Sean

21. Sean Meegan Says:
    January 17th, 2008 at 8:20 pm

    Oh - And interestingly, I just popped my hood a moment ago and saw oil on my engine block for the first time ever. Does this scream head gaskets to you? It appears to be coming from a seam in the block just behind and to passenger side of the pulleys/tensioners for my belts.
    Thanks for any insights.

22. greg Says:
    January 19th, 2008 at 9:13 pm

    well my problem sounds like a head gasket but it just doesnt make since. My 97 subaru outback keeps overheating.Ive changed the thermostat,water pump and the timing belt just because. The engine sometimes runs normal and other times runs hot. If I feel the inlet hose to the radiator its hot but the lower hose is cold,as if the radiator has no flow through it. Ive flushed the system twice and with the thermostat out of the loop the eng runs cold and there is flow through the system.Its acts, to me, like the thermostat is in backwards but the heating element/spring side is toward the engine. What gives? Head gasket issue makes some since but then why would the engine run cool without the thermostat? One other important tidbit…the coolant overflow does have oil residue in it.

23. Justin Stobb Says:
    January 19th, 2008 at 11:49 pm

    The Subaru Outback has a reverse flow type cooling system. Meaning the thermostat is at the bottom and the lower hose will not get warm until the thermostat opens. The lower radiator hose is the inlet hose to the radiator from the engine. The reason it runs cooler without the thermostat is the coolant is always flowing. The job of the thermostat is just like the thermostat in your house it is there to regulate/control temperature. In your Vehicle the thermostat does this by reducing coolant flow until the coolant gets to a specific temperature. The original thermostat in your Subaru had a small valve that would allow a small amount of coolant to flow through it, the thermostat will start to partially open prior to the preset temperature before finally opening all the way to allow full coolant flow. By removing the thermostat you have temporarily reduced the likelihood of over heating by never allowing the engine it self to get to normal operating temperature. This also results in a richer fuel mixture, which also lowers combustion chamber temperatures, which also lowers engine temperature, but at a cost.
    Maintaining a specific temperature is a key function in reducing green house gasses and increasing fuel economy. This can damage the engine as well over time.

    Taking the thermostat out wont last forever as the excess cylinder pressure and temperature from the failing head gaskets will eventually create more heat in the cooling system than the engine’s cooling system can deal with even with the thermostat out. The whole time the head gaskets are leaking internally, there is a chance that the cylinder heads and engine block can become pitted. The oily residue in the overflow bottle is a sign of failed head gaskets as well. Take a moment and smell the overflow bottle as well. Chances are it will smell like exhaust.

    I hope this helps answer some of your questions

24. Bob Soars Says:
    January 22nd, 2008 at 11:44 am

    Dear Justin, I have an ‘02 Outback with 82K. Last year, I started smelling anti-freeze inside the car, and ‘assumed’ it was a leaking heater core. Some stop-leak seemed to halt the odor. Now, I’m having bad hesitation upon acceleration. I have to ‘pump’ the accelerator pedal, and really ‘kick-it’ to get up to speed. Once there, everything is fine. Am I having head gasket problems like everyone else? Thanks, Bob

25. Justin Stobb Says:
    January 22nd, 2008 at 9:21 pm

    Hello Bob,

    Without checking/testing its really hard to say for sure. Start with an inspection of the engine for any external leaks. Pay close attention to the cross member for any signs of coolant residue. Next look in the overflow bottle for signs of an oily residue. As far as the hesitation, there are a couple of other possiblities such as plug wires, plugs and the coil. Is the check engine light on?

26. Ako Says:
    January 24th, 2008 at 12:24 am

    Hi. I have an ‘03 Legacy Outback with 55K. The dealer shop informed me of the headgasket problem. The headgaskets are leaking and it will cost around $1700. According to the dealer, my warranty expired a month ago. What is my options?

27. Justin Stobb Says:
    January 24th, 2008 at 6:56 pm

    Hey Ako,

    I would call S.O.A.(Subaru of America) You can find their phone number in your owners manual. I hope you have service records, as long as you do I feel pretty confident that a phone call to Subaru will yield better results than the Dealer. When you call Subaru make sure you say the following. You have been told by the Service department at _______ dealership, that you have a head gasket leak that they have denied warranty coverage of the needed repairs. You bought the vehicle in good faith that Subaru would stand behind their product and that you had also been advised that the head gasket problems plaguing the older models had been resolved and that you shouldn’t expect any problems with your vehicle. Be nice, but be to the point, and be clear that you expect the repairs to be done under warranty. Don’t threaten or be rude. If you don’t have any service records, than you may have to accept some responsibility, and maybe you should ask for partial coverage of the repairs. Something is better than nothing.

    Hope this helps and good luck

28. Ron Deller Says:
    January 25th, 2008 at 7:51 pm

    I have a 1999 Forester with the 2.5L EJ25 SOHC. Your article describes the head gasket failure to a T. I have the engine apart right now. The vehicle has 115,000 miles on it and the engine is amazingly clean on the inside, like it had been rebuilt in the last few years (I am the second owner so I have no records to prove this). The local machine shop milled the heads and said there was no need to rebuild them as they were in great shape. My problem is that on the cylinder that seemed to be the most effected by the failing head gasket got a small piece of debris between the top ring and the cylinder wall leaving a visible but not vey deep scratch. It can barely be felt by a thumb nail. All of the other bores are so clean that you can still see the honing makes. My problem is finding a machine shop that will correct this short block. I e-mailed several of those large engine rebuild houses in the US asking to purchase a short block. But no one has responded. None of the local (zip code 95003 Santa Cruz, CA) machine shops will work on a Subaru short block. I would like to put this engine back together correctly as I agree that I will get many miles out of it. Any suggestions?

29. Justin Stobb Says:
    January 25th, 2008 at 10:41 pm

    Hey Ron,

    It is very difficult to find a machine shop that is up to the task. We take the block apart here and deliver the bare case half’s to a local machine shop but it is not cheap, and in a lot of instances we will end up buying a new/reman. short block from Subaru. The problem is that it needs to be in the hands of a truly skilled machinist, and you really want to make sure that there isn’t a big overbore difference between one cylinder and the rest or it will vibrate. Also you will probably end up replacing all the rings and bearings and with the cost of machine shop labor there won’t be much difference in price from a short block from Subaru versus fixing what you have. If you are comfortable splitting the case half’s your self and putting them back together maybe you could ship them out? What I can also share with you is if the scratch doesn’t go all the way down the cylinder wall and it wasn’t consuming oil before or the cylinder leakage to the crankcase was ok you might let it fly. If it did consume oil or its worse than I am visualizing than machining the cylinder wall is probably the way to go. I will tell you that it is a lot of work and a lot to put back together when dealing with the case half’s. Be very careful with the wrist pins if you tackle it your self.

    Justin

30. Ron Deller Says:
    January 26th, 2008 at 5:53 am

    Justin-
    I sincerely thank you for your response. The engine was consuming oil prior to tear down. Your advice is very good in getting a new short block from Subaru. I REALLY do not want to spend the time splitting the case and re assembling. Can you recommend a source of a quality head gasket so I do not go through this same problem again?

31. Camille Hunter Says:
    January 27th, 2008 at 11:54 pm

    I have a 2003 Forester with 93,000 miles. Recently it started to leak coolant. The dealer noted that the headgasket showed coolant leaking on one side. The recommendation was to rebuild the engine

    My second opinion contact checked the notices and recommendations on the car. He found that oversize Cylander Head Studs were recommend. Do you know if there were any defect notices of this problem? I am thinking that my Headgasket leak is a result of the smaller Cylander Head Studs streatching. Have you heard of this problem?

32. Justin Stobb Says:
    January 29th, 2008 at 2:33 am

    Ron,

    Really the only choice is the O.E. gasket. Use a copper gasket spray on both sides of the gaskets and you will be fine. I have yet to see an aftermarket gasket I would use.

33. Justin Stobb Says:
    January 29th, 2008 at 2:46 am

    Camille,

    Your Subaru Forester uses cylinder head bolts and not studs. They are called torque to yield type bolts and should be replaced if they have stretched beyond use.

    If your Subaru Forester has a leaking head gasket the repair procedure would be to replace the head gasket or gaskets along with the necessary parts to do the repair properly. There are a few service bulletins pertaining to cylinder head gasket issues on Subaru’s but none of them pertain to oversized head studs.

    I hope that helps. The repairs made properly will yield many more trouble free years of service from your Subaru.

34. Ruth Says:
    January 31st, 2008 at 3:37 pm

    Hello,
    I had a collant leak also and both head gaskets were replaced under a recall. I just had them replaced again and it cost me $950- This should have been covered under warranty by subaru if I ‘m reading everything correctly- right
    Thank You,
    Ruth

35. Justin Stobb Says:
    January 31st, 2008 at 4:53 pm

    Ruth,

    Subaru only covers the repair one time under warranty, unless the repair fails while still under the factory warranty. And even then it is usually on the repairing Dealership. If the repair didn’t last very long than yes I would probably call and talk to Subaru of America, not the dealer but the phone number in your owner’s manual.

36. Ruth Says:
    January 31st, 2008 at 7:20 pm

    Thank You - was just make sure I thought I read somewhere that if you had the coolant additive added that head gaskets were covered for up to 8 years or 100,000 miles.

37. David K. Henrickson Says:
    February 8th, 2008 at 4:05 am

    I have a 1998 Subaru Outback LTD that was diagnosed by (2)repair shops in August 2007 as being in need of a head gasket repair, currently has 161,000miles (burns through coolant, heat in the car is sporadic, oil in pan looks like chocolate milk, blows white smoke out the exhaust, and has the occasional putrid-burning smell coming from the engine). I am bringing it in to be evaluated tomorrow by another shop to have an estimate written for me. With that said I have five questions: 1)how much damage have I done over the past (5) months driving it around unrepaired? It constantly overheats for long periods of time and yet I keep driving it. 2)Is the engine worth repairing? 3)Is there other work I should have my mechanic do while they are in there making this repair? 4)What questions should I ask about how they intend to make the repair to ensure it is lasting? 5)What is the typical cost of this repair, to include whether existing heads can be machined or if new heads are required?
    Thanks so much for this valuable site, wish I had come across you months ago!!!

38. Justin Stobb Says:
    February 9th, 2008 at 5:58 am

    Hey David,

    I will try and answer all of your questions.

    Typically when the head gaskets fail in the first generation 2.5l as found in your Outback you will end up with transfer of exhaust/combustion into the cooling system and some coolant into the cylinders but not coolant in the oil, the later is kind of a deal breaker as far as repairing this engine goes. If it is really that bad to the point that the oil has become contaminated with coolant, I would be hesitant to make repairs to that engine until it was torn down and properly inspected by someone who is really familiar with the motor. With the extensive overheating you may have warped the heads or block and even cracked a cylinder liner (worst case).

    You are not alone and we have dealt with this issue many times. If your car was here we would first do a thorough inspection of the whole car and all of its needs to make sure the car is worth repairing first of all, next we would do our best to try and figure out how severe the engine problems are with out tear down (this comes with experience with Subaru’s). If we had assessed the engine as “most likely not worth fixing”, here is what I usually suggest.

    Finding a good used 2.5l, plan on doing a complete engine reseal with the updated head gaskets. I would also suggest replacing the timing belt, water pump and coolant hoses. This repair done correctly will yield a long life provided proper maintenance is done after the fact.

    The cost is really going to depend on the cost of the used engine. Repair prices can vary substantially state to state as a shop’s overhead can be quite different depending on where you live. Our shop rate is $85.00 an hour and most of the Dealerships are over $100.00 an hour.

    I would estimate a used engine to be $1,000.00 to $1200.00
    A complete reseal of the used engine $1800.00 to $2000.00
    Hoses, belts, fluids and misc. $200.00 to $300.00

    I would stay away from the low mileage Japanese exchange engines unless the shop is planning on resealing it, as the head gaskets (which started the whole problem) will still be the old design and subject to future failure. We usually have found that a low mileage exchange engine imported from Japan and “dropped in” will usually go one to two years prior to needing the head gaskets done.

    Your best bet is finding an Independent Subaru repair shop in your area. I would be hesitant taking to a general repair shop and would not take it to a Subaru Dealer service department for this kind of repair. Lastly the quality of the parts used, combined with how skilled the technician is repairing the vehicle, will ultimately determine how long the repairs will last. Just make sure you get real value for your money and that may come with a slightly higher price.

    Hope that helps

    Justin

    Your Independent Subaru Specialist.

39. Dana Says:
    February 19th, 2008 at 3:31 am

    Thanks for all this great info….I have a 1998 Forester with 190k Its in great shape, my mom bought it new and has had the oil changed every 3k. About a month ago I started smelling this burning oil smell after driving for a few minutes, the dealer told me it was the valve cover gasket leaking and replaced it, Well it solved the burning smell but I am a bit worried about the Phase 1 head gasket failure. Would you recommend replaces the head gaskets before 200k? I also recently started using a synthetic blend for high milage cars, Next week I am driving out to CA, (from MI) and trying to take as many precautions as I can. Thanks Again!

40. Kyle W Says:
    February 19th, 2008 at 6:47 am

    Hi I have a 1999 Outback and recently had the Head Gaskets done. After getting the car back from the shop I drove to Winter Park (a mountain resort in CO) ran fine, but when driving home i started to notice a knocking noise from the engine area. I drove the car back home and later the next day back to the shop. The guy there told me that sometimes it the car gets heated it can cause the bottom end to go out (short block. The car has 167,700 miles and still runs fine but have noticed a drop in fuel millage, and the knocking noise between 2,000 and 3,000 rmps. When i took it back to the shop they put it on the lift and checked all the heat shields and found nothing. I have never heard this noise before and did some searching on youtube and found some EJ25’s with similar noise’s. Some say piston slap and some say rod bearings. I payed $1900.00 to have the HG’s done and the shop offered to give me back the labor in credit. So they want to charge me 2980.00 for a shop rebuilt or 3500.00 for a Subaru Factory motor… what should i do?
    Thanks much
    Kyle

41. Justin Stobb Says:
    February 20th, 2008 at 4:27 am

    Hey Dana,

    If you like your Subaru then I would say you should at least have the vehicle checked for signs of exhaust gasses in the cooling system, I would also encourage a full vehicle inspection so you have the whole picture in front of you as far as current and future needs. I usually try to encourage having the repair done prior to the car overheating as it does save some money. If your Forester overheats, it may warp the cylinder heads and the added cost of pressure testing and resurfacing the heads can add up to $300.00. This can usually be avoided if the problem is caught early enough.

    Thank you for the feed back on our website and I hope I have helped

    Justin

42. Justin Stobb Says:
    February 20th, 2008 at 4:42 am

    Hey Kyle,

    Was the timing belt tensioner replaced? A lot of times the tensioner can fail and cause the timing belt to “slap” which sometimes can sound like a knock. The 2.5 L found in your 1999 Outback is not prone for lower end bearing failure unless it is starved for oil. The amount of piston slap noise can sometimes increase after head gasket repairs, as the explosion in the cylinder can be more powerfull after leaking head gaskets are sealed. The bigger the explosion in the cylinder(especially when cold) the better the chance for the condition that causes piston slap to be present. But having said all that piston slap really shouldn’t result in needing a lower end redone. I would ask the shop who performed the repairs on your Subaru to re-check the tensioner and I would go from there. If you do in fact need a lower end I would only suggest the Subaru shortblock.

    I hope that helps

43. Kyle W Says:
    February 20th, 2008 at 6:52 am

    I had the timing belt replaced in the summer and when they did the HG’s they didn’t replace it. They said they would just put it back on the motor since it was so new and not in need to replacing. I Went to flat irons Subaru which is a dealer and they also told me the same thing about the bottom end…(they took it into the shop and looked at it) I change the oil every 3000 and the car is very well taken care of… I dropped the car back and the shop to have the motor replaced. I hope i didnt make a mistake.

44. Chip C Says:
    February 27th, 2008 at 9:10 pm

    Hi! I’ve got a 2000 Outback Wagon (automatic) and have a few issues with it. One is the gassy smell in the garage (and sometimes in the car) that appeared soon after the catalytic converter was replaced. Any ideas? the repair shop showed no leaks and couldn’t smell what I smelled. Recently car has had difficulty starting. Just a click, then next attempt or two and it will start strongly. Had the starter replaced, but no change. Could it be an aging parking brake sensor? Car has 152K miles on it…

45. Justin Stobb Says:
    February 27th, 2008 at 11:34 pm

    Hey Chip,

    There is a protective coating on the Catalytic converter that may need some time to burn off. Also is the possibility that the PCV hose has been bumped loose while disconnecting the front O2 sensor to replace the catalyst. Other than that is the possibility of the exhaust not being sealed up well (gasket leak) sometimes the dealer or other shops will re-use the exhaust flange gaskets and they don’t always seal up well the second time. As far as the no start usually a “click” for a couple of times prior to the starter engaging is worn starter contacts but since you have mentioned the starter is new I would look into the inhibitor switch or transmission range switch as being out of adjustment (it is not uncommon for this to need to be adjusted as the shift linkage ages). Also if the ignition switch is worn (which is a moving part) you can have this type of symptom even though it is rare. Lastly the battery state of charge and ability to handle a load should be tested as well.

    Hope that helps

    Justin

    Your Independent Subaru Specialist.

46. Jim H Says:
    February 28th, 2008 at 3:48 pm

    Justin,

    First, thank you for such an informative article and such helpful responses to the questions posed by others.

    We are in the market for a used car, but due to our current economic standing we need a car to last at least 3 yrs with a relatively high degree of confidence that it won’t cost us a small fortune after the purchase. Although we like the style and space of the Outback, we are understandably a bit apprehensive about the given the head gasket problems - we’ve already passed on an otherwise good looking ‘99 thanks in large part to your article.

    We are now looking at an ‘03 Special Edition with a 2.5L H4 SFI SOHC 16V . If I understand you correctly, the ’03s still have some head gasket problems, but not as much. Given that I am looking for car with a high degree of reliability, how would you rate the ‘03 model (say on a scale of 1-10)?

    Thank you for any help you can offer.

    Jim

47. Justin Stobb Says:
    February 28th, 2008 at 10:53 pm

    Hey Jim,

    Thanks for the feedback on our website.

    The 03 on a scale of 1 to 10 would come in at an 8 or 9 at this point. They are proven to be reliable and very very safe if ever in an accident. I would still recommend that you have the vehicle inspected prior to buying it, but I can tell you the 2003 is a better vehicle than the 2000 to 2001 as far as the probability of needing to replace the head gaskets goes. I hope that helps and good luck in your vehicle search.

    Justin

48. Jim H Says:
    February 29th, 2008 at 4:31 pm

    It helps a lot. Thank you again!

    Jim

49. Sean Meegan Says:
    March 3rd, 2008 at 7:48 pm

    Justin
    Thanks again for an excellent and knowledgeable resource for Subaru owners. I had the head gaskets replaced with confidence on Bu (the Blue Subaru) due in large part to your articles.

    Are yo