Subaru Low Oil Level Light
The current model Subaru Outback with the 3.6l H6 incorporates something Subaru has never done and that’s a low oil level sensor and warning indicator (yellow in color). This is not to be confused with the low oil pressure light (red) that has existed on all EJ platform Subaru Vehicles.
Subaru 3.6r Oil Level Sensor
The current production Subaru 2.5l NA 4 cylinder models are required to use full synthetic oil, the current production Subaru H6 is not, even though Subaru has specified oil change intervals of 7000 miles for “normal use”. The low oil level sensor is there to prevent engine failure due to low oil levels, as Subaru is anticipating oil consumption in between oil changes at the increased service interval and knowing many won’t really understand if how they use the car fits into the definition of normal or severe use. So for the first time on a Subaru your Subaru is checking its oil for you!
One thing I want to point out is that when changing the oil if the key is turned to the on position when the oil level is low, or after filling it back up with oil after an oil change and when starting the vehicle you are too quick with the key the low oil light will come on and stay on for a drive cycle even though the oil level is full. If you change the oil your self its a good idea to turn the key to the run position once you have filled it up with oil, and let the system recognize the oil is full, (this should take about 20 seconds) prior to starting the Subaru.
In the event this does happen to you all you can do is drive it for a bit, shut it off and restart it and it should go off on its own.
Thanks for reading
Justin
Justin, You have a great website, If I lived near the Seattle/Tacoma area you would be my shop. I currently have a 2010 2.5l, auto trans Outback, it is now in the shop for the 4th time in 6 weeks, same problem, OverHeating. My wife and I love the Outback, even bought a Baja after the Outback due to how much we were impressed with Subaru’s product. Outback has 79k, oil changed every 7-8k with Mobile 1 full synthetic (do it at home, no leaks of any kind), never any mechanical issues, we have aftermarket extended warranty we purchased new with vehicle. Now after reading your headgasket II article, our Outback seems to have your discription #3 headgasket failure. Each time it has overheated, my wife has pulled over and turned off the car quickly. It has boiled over into the overflow, pooped over flow cap, steamed all over the place and radiator dry. Three times I meet her and filled with 50/50 antifreeze and driven it to Antelope Valley Subaru, Lancaster Ca. First they replaced a fan that was not operating, 2nd time they said radiator cap was bad, 3rd time they said they couldn’t figure out what the problem is, maybe a air pocket/bubble in cooling system. Now 4th time I had AAA tow it to them just as it is, didn’t add antifreeze or touch anything, told the service Dept. that it seems likely we have a bad headgasket and I do not want to have to bring it in again for same problem, they were understanding and gave us rental car this time. We live in Tehachapi, Ca 1 hour away from dealership, so like alot of people it’s not convenient to just swing by the dealership. But, like you mentioned in your headgasket article, it’s amazing that factory mechanics can’t figure out what is wrong, when so many 2.5l have headgasket problems, still waiting for diagnosis. Wish me luck, again thank you for your wealth of information, it’s good to be correctly informed. I am now unfortunately thinking about trading in/selling our Outback. for the next vechicle, the Outback suites our needs to a tee. Is there any problematic issues with the 3.6l auto trans combination, I think that is what we will be leaning towards next time, as I will be comforatable with 25ish mpg’s for the benefit of the extra power. Thank you for your assistance.
Jeff Bishop
Hello Jeff,
I am sorry to hear that! Your 2010 Subaru Outback is the fist one I have heard of that has a potential failed Head gasket. The 2010 Outback uses a Semi Closed Deck Engine Block and MLS gaskets right from the factory so the head gasket thing should not plaque this engine but that doesn’t mean there wont be any issues.
We do in fact service a 2010 that has over 120k on it, the only difference I can see is that we still change her oil every 3000 miles, and have also changed the coolant twice. One possible senario is that the cooling fan failure may have ultimately caused the head gasket failure. I know this is a pain, especially when the Dealer has no clue (and they wont for a while). I would suggest that once its repaired you drive it for a bit before moving on, you may feel differently after a month has passed after the repairs are complete.
However I can share with you I drive the 2012 Outback 3.6r and do like the extra power it has as I go up a lot of Mountain passes here in the Northwest with our Subaru. We have done a few HG repairs to the 3.0l, still none to the 3.6 only some “oil out” type engine replacements from customers going to long on oil changes and not checking their oil. I think you would be happy with the 3.6r and wouldn’t ever suspect you would have a HG issue that early if at all.
If you are inclined it would be good of you to repost once you have a diagnoses.
Thanks for posting
Justin
Justin,
Just got a phone call from Antelope Valley Subaru, Lancaster, Ca. They said my 2010 2.5l auto Outback, has a internal problem. They replaced the thermostat and did all their normal system checks and couldn’t at first get it to overheat like it has for us. They drove it, let it cool and drove it hard. This is what they said, due to ours overheating twice, out of the 4 times while coming up a 15-20 mile mountain grade. Either a slightly blown headgasket, or cracked head. They said it took them along time to get it to overheat, and when it did, it blew all or most of the radiator fluid into and out of the overflow. I thanked them for taking the extra time to get our Outback to overheat, because my wife and I didn’t want to go through this again anytime soon.
Good news is that our aftermarket warranty covers both the headgaskets and/or heads. Badnews is it takes them a couple of days to authorize the repair once they recieve the estimate.
I mentioned to A.V. Subaru that I had been looking on the internet and found your site. I relayed what you wrote in response to my post. They were not offended, but said that is also what they were leaning towards, blown head gasket due to original overheating with the bad fan. They also had another 2010 2.5l in with blown headgaskets, so I have no idea if this is becoming a common problem (I hope not), or blown headgaskets in newer 2.5l’s are secondary due to overheateing from another issue, like our bad cooling fan.
One a side note, why wouldn’t a check engine light get turned on when a fan doesn’t turn on, or if it ECM can’t sense the fan operating, why not when it reaches a certain temp. We only got a check engine light the last time, along with a cooling/water temp light, the 1st three times only a cooling/water temp light.
If this repair holds, I think we will be keeping our Outback for awhile longer. But we are already looking foward to a 3.6l one day, hopefully in a few more years they’ll have a 6 speed or even higher auto. Glad to hear you are happy with yours.
I’ll post what the final outcome is. We appriciate your dedication to your profession and concern for your customers.
Thank you,
Jeff and Mindi Bishop
Hi Jeff,
Thanks for the kind words, I am also glad to learn you are obtaining some help.
I am aware of the fan situation, and wonder if perhaps this is not being repaired soon enough in some cases and the cooling system is suffering as a result, but only time will tell the story. The check engine light does not come on at this time for a failed fan until it takes way to long to cool the engine, other wise known as fan “on time” or duty cycle. There is no monitoring system for every component only ones that could affect the emissions of the vehicle, which is really what the check engine light is about and much less to do with any function of the engine.
I thank you for following up.
Justin
Hi Justin,
I was looking for an 2013 Outback 3.6R but I saw too many complains and problems with automatic transmission. I don’t want to waste 37K on OB if Subaru was not wiling to fix it. It seems that a lot of 2012 models have this problem and the symptoms were minimized but never went away. Complains and dissatisfaction with 2013 models are also growing.
I talked to few dealers and they claim there is no problem with AT. When I pushed for the answer a bit harder they admitted there was a problem with 2012 models but it was solved for 2013.
I assume that they don’t want to loose any sales but after consumer buys a lemon it s his problem and not Subaru’s.
2012 December issue of CR also do not recommend OB, but no reason was given.
My neighbor bought 2013 OB in September and started to have problem with an AT.
INo consumer can afford to have a new car to be fixed every few weeks with persistent problem even with a warranty, but what happens after? $$$ screwed!!!
Could you share your input that may help potential buyers (like me) and maybe Subaru may read it on your website too and hopefully fix this for good. (This is not a noisy ashtray issue with a loose change.)
What is your experience and opinion about automatic transmission on OB 3.6R for 2010-2013 models?
Thanks,
Andy
PS.
I live in San Francisco Bay Area where are many Subaru dealers to pick from.
Hello Andy,
I own a 2012 Outback 3.6r and have no such issue, there is a logic update or service Service Bulletin # 11-104-11 that addresses a learned issue within the Transmission control Module that affects some models.
There is no widespread Transmission issue with any Subaru that I am aware of, the Subaru Sales Department would not be privy to any information regarding changes to the 2013 Outback H6, no one is until they have been out for a while. They merely told you what you want to hear.
If an occasional trip to a Dealership for a logic update here and there will get you bent, you really don’t want a new car, you pick the make and model and go seek that car on a Forum and I promise you will read rants about frequent trips for logic re-flashes. Its the problem with to much technology and it is not a Subaru thing and not to mention a good way to get you back in for customer pay service along with your free reflash.
Its good that you are researching before you buy, but for every driver that is having an issue, there are hundreds that are not. I cant tell you if you will be satisfied with a 2012, or 2013 Outback H6, I like mine and do not have any of the symptoms you are describing, lastly have you actually driven one that had this issue there’s lots to choose form both new and used?
Sorry I cant offer more.
Justin
Hi Justin,
I am looking to see if the problems I am having with my Subaru are common. I have a 2012 Subaru 3.6r. I have about 15,000 miles. The first time I was scheduled to go in for an oil change, about a week before I was due, the low oil level light came on. I immediately checked and I was down a quart of oil. I added a quart and took it into the dealership the same week. They said all looked ok and changed the oil. About a week ago, right before I am planning to go to get my oil changed again, the low oil level light came on. I checked the oil and low and behold it was down a quart AGAIN. Due to how the engine runs, etc. I thought that this was not supposed to happen. It seems counter to the design of the car for me to be losing a quart of oil between oil changes. Is this common?
Secondly, I am wondering if there is a bigger problem because when I turn off the air system in the car there is a tremendous amount of hot air that is pumped into my car. I often have to turn on the AC just to counteract the hot air from what I assume to be the engine. There is so much hot air that if I am driving with the air system off then I keep my vents closed. What are your thoughts? Could these problems be connected.
I would really appreciate your expert advice, especially before I take it to the dealership.
Best,
Lauren Hudson
Hi Lauren,
Because you have not mentioned when you are taking it in for an oil change in terms of miles I can only assume you are thinking your car is being used normally and its ok to change it at intervals greater than 3000 miles? Also not knowing how often you change the oil makes it difficult to advise you but generally speaking a quart in between oil changes is normal on most cars especially if you don’t change the oil every 3000 miles. The owners manual does not state the interval is 7000 miles, it states the interval is 7000 miles if you use the vehicle in a normal way without really explaining what normal is.
Hot air? So I think you need to spend some time with the owners manual and understand the climate control system settings and most importantly the recirc feature.
The two are not related
Justin
Great site, thank you. I have a 2010 Legacy 3.6R Limited. Wonderful car, but I’ve noticed increased oil consumption (no leak), approximately a quart every 2k miles. The car has 52k on it, has been dealer serviced every 3k miles, since I bought it new. It raised an eyebrow until I began reading the experiences of others, and your sage advice. I’ll bring it up to Subaru on the next servicing, but I’ll probably accept the company usage standard. With my warranty fading, I’m sure they won’t rush to tear it apart. I live in the Catskill Mountain region of NY, and occasionally flip a paddle to engine brake, and cruise at an occasionally immodest speed on the interstates. This is my fifth Subaru, my first six, and the first one to use oil internally, although two became leakers. Will heed your advice, and since I love the car, which runs superbly and even delivers better than advertised mpg’s, I’ll watch it more closely, keep levels up, and stick my head back in the sand..
Hi Robert,
I’m glad your keeping up on it, do you happen to know if your dealer uses Castrol?
Thanks
Justin
Not sure what brand of oil is used, but I’ll ask. This oil usage started within the last 15k miles or so, so I’ll also ask them, for laughs, to check the pcv, or any other system, and whatever other brilliant ideas that can be entertained without me being put on the ‘pay-no-mind’ list by Subaru.
Do you find a brand or viscosity that may be better to use? In the good ole days of nasty Detroit 8 cylinder engines, we used to run & pick up the motor honey of choice, motor rebuild in a can. No, I promise I won’t…
Thanks again!
Hi Bob,
I have found that the additive package in Castrol GTX, followed by Kendall seem to help ease consumption.
Hope that helps
Justin
Hey Justin,
Thanks for the info, and again, for a great site.
Hello Justin, great site. I just purchased 2013 Outback 3.6R and put 1100 miles on it. Love the car. Is it ok to change the oil? I always run Motul synthetic or Amsoil and heard it’s good to change the oil early. Does the 2013 3.6r have any special break in oil that needs to stay in longer? (Dealer wants to change it at 3k miles) Thanks.
Jim
I changed the oil on my 2012 3.6r at 1500 and used 5w30 Castrol synthetic blend. You can change it now, and make the switch to synthetic. Do only use the Subaru Oil filter however its got the proper anti drain back, we have found them non existent in some aftermarket filters, it can over time lead to timing chain guide wear.
Hope that helps
Justin
Hello,
I have a 2012 Outback 3.6r. It has 14,500 miles on it. I have had the oil changed every 3500 to 3750 miles at the dealership using regular 5w 30 oil.
Last November while on a road trip the oil light came on during a cold start one morning and stayed on. I checked the oil, it seemed a little low so I added a quart and the light went out. As it was due for an oil change I took it to the dealer and mentioned the oil light coming on. The oil was changed and all was well for about a month. The light came on again. I took it into the dealer and they checked the oil. The level was fine. They did a reset on the oil sensor and said that should fix it. It did for about another month then the light came on again. Checked the oil and is was about 1/2 quart low. Took it into the dealer, but the light had gone out in the meantime (as the engine warmed up, I suppose).
Seems the oil light sensor in this model has a few bugs. Any thoughts?
Hello Everette,
I own the same car and have higher mileage and do not have that symptom, but I do use Blend.
1/2 a quart low should not trigger the light, I would think there is a explanation for it and most likely its a sensor or data issue.
Justin
Brand new 2013 OUtback manual transmission 2.5i. Less than 3000 miles. Low oil warning light came on several times yesterday – checked oil and it was fine. If I turned off the engine, the light went off and was off for a while, but then came on again. It SEEMS to be a sensor problem maybe with this model since the oil level was normal.
Most likely it has a sticky sensor