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Subaru Repair Seattle: Wheel Bearings Explained Part 1

Your Subaru Wheel bearings Explained.

Subaru Wheel Bearing

 

So there are many models of Subaru, many different platforms, or generations.  I will have to break this up into more than one article or it will be just too hard to follow.  This first article will focus on the Subaru Forester, but many of the Subaru models use the same bearing design.

 

There are many different variations of the wheel bearing and below are some pictures of the some of the common designs of the last few years.

Old Vs New

This is the old on the left, the updated in the middle with the release in the race

Wheel Bearings and Hub

 

Here we have a roller bearing on the left, the updated bearing on the right and a worn/ dmaged hub and tappered wheel bearing in the middle.

 

The Subaru Forester from 1998 to about 2003 had a pretty significant issue with the longevity of the right rear wheel bearing.  I am going to focus this article on that era first as it will explain a lot of common symptoms, along with showing the differences Subaru has made in the design of the wheel bearing.

 

The first Foresters came with a roller type rear wheel bearing pictured below.  This wheel bearing had a longevity issue, and some didn’t last 30,000 miles before failing.  The bearing was updated first with a tapered roller bearing, second with a tapered roller bearing with a release in the outer bearing race and finally with a revised installation tool and procedure.

Wheel Bearings and Hub

Why some wheel bearings last longer than others has a lot to do with tire pressure, brake heat, driving patterns and habits,  vehicle alignment, suspension system integrity and lastly road crown.

 

Road Crown?

In areas where it rains a lot like my home state of Washington, there is the need to keep the water off of the road as such the roads are paved with a slight inclination to the right, if it was the other direction the water and you would veer to the left and into oncoming traffic.  This can put increased pressure on some of the vehicles systems such as the right side wheel bearings.

The Subaru Forester is not the quietest vehicle ever produced, and sometimes it can be hard for the driver to hear the audible signs of a failed wheel bearing, but if it seems like the road noise in your Sub is loader than normal chances are one of the wheel bearings has started to fail, and if let go too long, the hub can become damaged.  The hub pictured below is pressed into the wheel bearing and is what the wheel actually bolts up too as well.   Taking your Subaru to a good shop that will keep an eye or better yet an ear on these things can help catch the wheel bearing early.

 

Subaru Wheel Hub

The latest Subaru bearing is the only bearing you should have installed, there are many aftermarket versions without the release which plays a critical role in longevity, if you own a Forester and have had to have this done over and over you may not of had the updated parts installed.

Make sure you are getting the bearing pictured below.

Updated Bearing & Hub

The front of the Forester uses a tapered roller bearing and while they do fail, just not at the same rate as the rear did.  Subaru and most either All Wheel Drive or front wheel drive vehicles use a similar design.

The days of taking out the bearings, cleaning and repacking every so often have long been gone.  When the bearings have symptoms in a modern vehicle the result is more expensive but there is no maintenance like there was in the older vehicles. As such it is unreasonable to expect the grease in the wheel bearing to last forever, and the bearing will overheat if not properly lubricated or can fail for a long list of other reasons.

So if confronted with a wheel bearing issue in a Subaru know it’s bound to happen, there are 4 of them, and slowly over the life of the car all 4 will probably have to be replaced and the right rear more than once.

The next Wheel bearing article will cover the captured type wheel bearings found in the 2000 and newer Outback and Legacy and the ones under an extended warranty by Subaru

You can buy the updated rear wheel bearing parts from us here.

Rear Wheel Bearing Kit With Hub

Updated Rear Wheel Bearing, all three Wheel Bearing Seals and new Subaru Hub, all the parts you need to fix it right the first time

$229.99

This Kit will fit the 1998 to 2008 Subaru Forester

As well as the 1990 to 1999 Subaru Legacy and Legacy Outback.

Will also Fit the 1993 to 2008 Subaru Impreza l, and Outback Sport

 

Thanks for reading

 

Justin

About the Author

All Wheel Drive Auto is a unique independent Subaru service & repair facility. We combine years of dealer experience with a local neighborhood shop atmosphere. We use Subaru parts & test Equipment and have the expert knowledge to fix it right the first time.

Comments (18)

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  1. Darcy Closs says:

    Looking forward to the Outback wheel bearing article.

    I guess the lack of any step-by-step, do-it-yourself instructions about the Forester wheel bearing in this article would suggest that it is not the kind of job to be done without pro help?

  2. Justin Stobb says:

    Darcy,

    I don’t to often put out a step by step process on this site, unless I am greatly worried that with out some solid information a consumer may be burned, or a shop come to the wrong conclusion as is the case with the power steering article.

    The second wheel bearing article is written, just no time for the pictures as of yet. Probably February or so.

    Thanks for taking the time to post on the website.

    Justin

  3. Bob Widness says:

    Thanks for the site and article. My 98 outback ltd has the right rear howl. Time to replace I guess. I’ve done several front wb subies but no rear. Specifically is there an upgraded bearing for the outback? I have access to a press. Any other special tools needed? Thanks again. Bob

  4. Amy says:

    hey there, I just got back from my repair guy for the ususal maintainenc(oil chg/ tire rotation) and I mentioned to him that my car was really ‘clacking’ a lot when it was cold. As it warmed up the the noice susbsided (never went comepletely away). He told me I needed my rings replaced. I guess I was wondering whether a 2003 outback wagon (4cy 2.1 ltr) with 150K on it should need it and shouldn’t he have tested something before makeing the determination? He has me wondering if I should get rid of this car that I love! Thank for having this site! Amy

  5. Andrew says:

    Hi Justin,
    Thanks for an informative article. I live in Australia where we drive on the left hand side of the road. Would it be fair to say that I’m likely to experience this problem more on the left hand wheel bearing? I had the rear left replaced 2 years ago on my 2000 forester and have done roughly 24 thousand miles since and it sounds like it’s beginning to go again.

  6. Mike Horst says:

    Hi Justin,
    Thanks for the great article on the Forester bearings. My question is: do I buy replacement bearings from the dealer or can I purchase some other brand (e.g., Koyo) at an online site ?
    Thanks again!

  7. [...] thinking aside. Here is a better explanation of what type of wheel bearings are used on Subaru Subaru Repair Seattle: Wheel Bearings Explained Part 1 – Seattle Subaru Repair Here is a simplified DIY to replace wheel bearings Wheel Bearing Replacement – Guru’s guide w/pics [...]

  8. Lillian says:

    Is there a special tool that is needed to take off a wheel bearing for a 1997 subaru impreza? One place I took the car too said they couldnt do it because of this?
    thank you

    • Justin Stobb says:

      It can be done in the car with a hub tamer, which I don’t suggest, or out of the car with a hydraulic press.

      Justin

    • Christian Andersen, Dover, DE says:

      If you don’t already have one, I suggest the Hayne’s Manual. It gives information in a format that’s easy to understand. I have a 2000 Forester, which is treated differently in the Hayne’s Manuals in that Forester bearings need to be pressed by a machine shop. I’ve found the local cost to be very reasonable. Impreza and Outbacks supposedly can be done by the DIY mechanic. For the cost & time factors, I’d opt to send the hub out locally to have the bearing & seals replaced.

      • Justin Stobb says:

        The Haynes Manual is a non professional manual that leaves a lot to be desired. You would be much better off with the Subaru Factory Manual full of Factual Information about Your Subaru, its worth the extra cost for a Home Gamer

  9. Christian Andersen, Dover, DE says:

    I have a 2000 Forester with 117k on the odometer. In the past 2 years, I’ve had to replace the driver’s rear wheel bearing twice and the passenger’s side once (the pasenger’s side is ready again I think). With the first driver’s side rear bearing, it took me awhile to figure what the noise was. The repair cost me ab out $100 for parts and the local machine shop to press old bearing out & the new one in. That bearing lasted less than one year/12000 miles! I had it replaced with a premium bearing & have not had problems. When I had the passenger’s side bearing replaced, I thought the issues would be gone, but I’m looking at replacing it with a premium bearing (about $135 for parts & the machine shop pressing the bearing).

    When I first priced out having the work done at one of the local automotive repair chains, the estimate was about $325 parts & labor. An added plus is that there’s no sales tax in Delaware!. Nonetheless, I’m not happy about wheel bearings not lasting long at all! I would typically expect them to last the life of the car, but that’s clearly not the case.

    However, I’d rather have low-level mechanical issues to deal with than difficult & expensive electronics/emission control ones.

    • Justin Stobb says:

      You need to use the Updated bearing from Subaru. Or you will continue to get short life out of your repairs.

      Justin

      • JT says:

        I had my right rear wheel bearing replaced last year at a Subaru dealership with the newest design bearings. Now, a year and 20,000 miles later, it needs replaced again. This will be the third bearing replacement on that hub. (Mechanic said the one they replaced was non-Subaru aftermarket.) I’ve heard other Subaru owners give similar stories.

        This time I am thinking of just putting a used hub on my car instead of paying the crazy price for the bearing replacement.

        • Justin Stobb says:

          JT

          If you only got 20k out of the updated bearings that tells me they were not properly packed with grease before install which is actually common place at a Subaru dealer.

          The updated bearings come packed with “packing grease” clear in color, that should be cleaned out and then proper high temperature wheel bearing grease packed in the bearing before pressed into the Hub.

          Want you wont hear abut is multiple rear wheel bearing replacements when the job is done at a good independent that understands the right way to service the vehicle.

          Sorry to hear you have yet to receive good value but the used part thing is not really the best way to go.

          Justin

  10. Tony, Sydney Australia says:

    Justin, Many thanks for excellent explanation re Forester wheel bearings. Here is Australia of course it’s the LH one that goes first.My 2 litre 2000 Forester at 150000kms (90000miles) I’m facing another replacement, the first at 100000kms No idea what was fitted, I know they used a second-hand hub. Do you recommend replacing bearing and hubs when the job is done ?
    Also facing another timing belt replacement which- Subaru Australia recommend at 100K kms or 4 years. Others disagree. At the distance I have travelled they also recommend water pump, tensioners, seals etc. Incidentally some very respected Subaru mechanics here (who don’t work for Subaru dealers)tell me the possible damage to the engine in the event of timing belt failure is greatly overstated.
    regards

    • Justin Stobb says:

      Hello Tony,

      Yes I could see the left side going out in your part of the world, just make sure its the updated components going in this time.

      As far as the Timing belt, while the interval seems off, I can tell you that if the belt breaks it will be nothing short of very Expensive and super inconvenient.

      Anything newer than 1996 will most likely bend valves in the event of a timing belt failure which just wont be cheap.

      Hope that helps

      Justin

  11. tom arnholtz says:

    thank alot good info think i”ll take the beast to a mechanic

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