By Justin Stobb on June 04th, 2010
Subaru Seperator Plate Explained
I f you are having repairs made to your Subaru or are taking the engine out for any reason, this is a good thing to look into replacing while you are at it.
I f you are having repairs made to your Subaru or are taking the engine out for any reason, this is a good thing to look into replacing while you are at it.
Excellent explanation on the “separator Plate. Two quick comments: Did I miss what year Subaru started using the steel separator plate as OEM?? Secondly, If something is worth saying, please say it slow enough for your audience to catch every word.
Thanks for another great Preventative MX tip.
Terry
Terry,
Your point is well taken, Subaru Started implementing the Aluminum plate in 2000, and then went from Aluminum to Stamped steel around 04 I believe.
Justin
Very interesting explaination on the plate, cover and vapor knob changes in newer engines.
Any suggestions as to what may be causing oil loss in a 1999 Forester (Canadian)? Runs great, no other problems,only 94000 km…..but oil seems to disappear without a trace. Nothing apparent in coolant overflow, engine very clean, no drips, no smoking….but have to constantly check and refill. Thanks for any help and for the great site!
Candice,
There are many possibilities, from a pcv system issue, to a mechanical engine deficiency with the valve stem seals, guides or piston oil rings there is just no way to know with out some investigating. How long are you going in between oil changes and have you been able to figure out at what point AFTER an oil change it starts to use oil.
Justin
Thanks for your speedy reply, Justin – haven’t been able to get to my mail for a couple of days. The original owner of my Forester had regular dealer service for the first 60000 km (oil changes per 6000 km) and I’ve done oil and filter on the same schedule for the 10000 km I’ve had it….(not sure about the 20000 km in between). I’m not sure what was in in it when I got it, but I’ve tried both 10W30 and the recommended 5W30. Does seem to make a difference. The oil loss might be slightly less of an issue for a couple of tanks of gas worth of driving right after the change. (But, again, never any performance issues, smoking, etc.)
oops, that should have said (oil weight) doesn’t seem to make a difference……
Hi Candice,
I would start by using Castrol 5w30 synthetic blend, if that’s not what you are already using, as we have truly had a few cars consume less oil after making the switch.
Other than that, it would be good to have someone look at the long term fuel trim data on a Subaru select monitor or the equivalent.
If after both of the above are addressed and either it doesn’t help or there is no problem found in the possibility of dilution of the engine oil than you really are only left with some sort of a mechanical engine issue causing the problem such as piston oil rings and or valve guides, seals.
Hope that helps
Justin
Thank you very much for your help. I’ll try the oil, and look into the PCV issue for starters….and will post again if I manage to solve the mystery. Thanks again for the great resource!
A friend of mine had a new engine (from Japan I think) and a new (possibly ebuilt transmission?) installed which came from Texas in installed in his 2000 Outback. Now it drives goofy so much that the mechanic that worked on it had to unhook the front axles so it is now only rear wheel drive. They have been unable to figure out what is wrong. Any ideas?
HI Mark,
The transmission that was put in has the wrong Gear ratio.
Wish your Friend The best of luck, he is going to need it.
Justin
[...] I belive aluminium part. I been hearing that most people screw up rear main seal replacment.
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Excellent video, thank you for putting it together. I have that exact engine, so this is very relevant.
I’ve been fighting with a back-of-the-engine oil leak since completely rebuilding my engine (following an overheat and shattered rod bearing due to running w/o oil).
It does that Subaru thing, where oil is pouring out of the back of the engine, burning off the cat and inspiring concerned citizens to roll their window down and tell me my car is on fire. Embarrassing.
Have tried the following so far in my attempt to fix it:
1) Removed engine, replaced rear main seal. No help.
2) Doubting the quality of my main seal install, removed engine again, did more careful main seal install. No help.
3) Did my internet research, learned of separator plate issues, and replaced oil separator plate. First, pulled the engine forward w/o removing it, didn’t see the level of evidence of leakage like the video shows, but that’s probably due to the recent rebuild, clean oil, etc. Notably, the main seal seemed dry, a trickle around wrist access panel just like the video, and some leakage under separator plate. Before removing the old plastic plate, I confirmed at least a small leak by forcing compressed air into the PVC tube shown in video, and rotating the engine via the front of the crankshaft using a drill. On removal the old plate showed only the beginnings of cracking near the screws, leaking was apparently due to a void in the Ultra Copper sealant I had used during the rebuild. Installed the new stamped steel plate & new fasteners, using Permetex Ultra Grey bead for seal. No help.
4) Lifted engine to remove oil pan, cleaned and reinstalled using aftermarket cork gasket. Used thin layer of Ultra Black on pan side and torqued to spec. Thought was, maybe primary leak is from back of oil pan seal. No help.
5) Present day. Engine’s still in car, still leaking like crazy. I left off the cover panel under the bellhousing, so I can peer up into the main seal area using a small dental mirror from below the car while illuminating with a headlight through an access hole I found at the top of the engine – and I can see the separator plate is still leaking when the car is running. Should I assume the problem is with my choice of sealant? Exactly what sealant should I use? Anaerobic maybe? What about creating a gasket, (that seems like a good idea to me)?
Thank you. As good as I’m getting at pulling off my engine, I think I’m also becoming insane. Your advice is appreciated!
If you installed the rear main seal in to far it will leak as the block is stepped. It could be the sealer try Subaru 3 bond, it could be the breather hose above the sep plate?
[...] part to eventually start leaking, consider it preventative maintenance while the engine is out Subaru Separator Plate Explained – Seattle Subaru Repair __________________ 2008 2.5XS [...]
[...] possibly this Subaru Seperator Plate Explained – Seattle Subaru Repair sadly the only way to do it is pull the engine or drop the transmission. __________________ [...]